Rear brake drum/hub removal help? (CJ5 w/CJ6 rear end)

Backstory:

Owner has two jeeps, one 69 CJ5 and one 64ish CJ6. CJ5 stops running and gets garaged. The CJ6 then has its rear end lock up for (then) unknown reasons. The owner then swapped out the rear from the CJ5 to the CJ6 as a fast repair.

Now, I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with the rear end that locked up. Upon removing the rear diff cover, I find bearing rollers, and bearing parts lying around in there. My suspicion is that a pinion gear bearing blew up. So I'm trying to remove the axles so I can figure out just what the heck happened, and get this rear end mobile again. Attached are some pics:








From these pictures, can anyone tell me A) what rear end that is, and B) the proper procedure to remove the brake drum/hub? I've already removed a dust cover, cotter pin and castle nut, but that drum is NOT moving.

Thank you so much, and please be kind if these are typical newbie questions.

 

I guess the main question would be, can anyone tell which rear end I have from the pictures? From what I read the removal instructions are different for different types of axles.

 

Gloftoe: You are going to have alot of fun trying to get the drum/hub off. When I did my cj5 - I bent the hubs and had to get new ones. If yours wont come off with a hub puller and alot of heat.. you will pretty much need to get this axle in a press. You can pull the shaft out along with the brake/hub assembly on it by pulling it out after cutting the wheel bearing retaining plate bolts. Those are the bolts that go though the end of the axle housing into the brake backing plate. Cut those bolts off, and knock the axle out by pounding on the backside of the brake backing plate.

I did come across a puller setup on the internet that might work on very stuck hubs. Heres the pic:

http://i45.tinypic.com/24nfltf.jpg

 

To add to what Patrick said it doesn't matter whether the axle came from a CJ-5 or CJ-6 as they used the same axle from comparable years. The pics show a Dana 44 with tapered axles. you will need a hub puller to remove the rear flanges/drums.
I'd highly recommend acquiring a FSM (Factory Service Manual) as it has invaluable step by step instructions on how to service not just the rear axle assembly but pretty much every aspect of the Jeeps you have listed.

Edit: I've found with most hub pullers that if you tighten down the pressure screw, pound on the end with a substantial hammer, tighten a little more, then pound again, repeat, that eventually it will come off. Be aware that they sometimes come off pretty violently (read come shooting off) so do NOT stand in line with it or you may get hurt. Make sure nothing is in the way either. A piece of plywood or something similar to deflect it is a good idea. Nickmil

 

Folks, thank you very much for the info and the tips. Sorry about not using the search function to its fullest potential before making this thread.

 

My buddy made this for me. I'd say its over 1/2" diamond plate and it still bent, but popped them off good. It catches three of the studs.



I got the drums off the hubs for my 11" conversion by lightly cutting them in half with an angle grinder, then prying near each stud with some mapp gas. It worked good.

 

Your location would also be helpful. These axles are easily obtainable for next to nothing and someone may live near you with another axle.

 

You need one of these type pullers and a sledge (I used an 8lb):



Make sure to put the nut on a few turns.

Once you have that off, take the backing plate, bearing retainer, etc. off, and then put the hub/drum back on (without the key), put the nut on a few turns, and use the hub/drum as a slide hammer to yank the axle and bearing out.

 

davistroy, I have a puller like that and have pounded the heck out of it with no success. I've yet to try any heat on the brake drum. Maybe that should be my next option. Thanks to all for the help.

 

:iagree: and its gonna take a oxy/acy torch to heat it up enough. i have one on my a1 that i didnt get off, for fear of bending the hub. and i got the feeling i am gonna be right in the same boat you are in, in the near future mehh

 

I second that Vangaurd... I used a 'turbo torch', which is hot like the
mapp gas. Heated around the shaft after I had pressure on the hub
with the hub-puller, then smacked the heck on the end of the puller.
Sucker popped off with authority!!!

 

Update:

I removed the passenger side hub with the help of a MAPP gas torch. The advice given here was spot on, as was the warning of the "explosive" response I'd get when the hub finally did come off.

Now, for my "bonehead move of the month", I neglected to realize that the lug nuts on the driver side rear were LH threads. I now have a couple of lug nuts that are tightened to the point that the impact wrench sheared off the lands on them, and I can't remove them anymore. A stupid move on my part, to say the least. I feel like an idiot.

Surely I can't be the first this has happened to, can I? About the only thing I think I can do now is try and cut the lug nuts off so I can remove the wheel. I welcome any advice, and fully expect some jeers also.

 

GOD WHAT A STUPID....


oh yeah.
i did it too.............