Flanged offset 44

I'm working on a custom axle. Can someone show me how the axles are held in? I can't get my axle end play set with a Detroit locker. Need to come up with a different bearing.

 

there is a plug (axle in my jeep has metal plugs, my spare has plastic ones) that will have to be removed from the flange that will allow you to get a socket on the bolts that old the axle retainer in place.

 

No no. What does the axle retainer look like? What hold the axle from coming out of the housing.

Maybe if someone has a part's diagram?

 

it's a thick metal flange or plate that goes on the axle before the bearing and seal
picture coming....

 

here's a parts manual diagram
kinda generic but in the correct order of assembly

 

not sure if this is what your looking for; fsm exploded view's

 

Scott,
With a flanged axle shaft you normally don't set endplay. Your 30 spline detroit won't have a thrust button for this. The bearing is sandwiched between the step in the housing and the axle shaft retainer. That sets endplay and is normally not adjustable. I know you're working with custom shafts but the manufacturer should have built them this way..... Nickmil

 

Well Summers Brothers didn't. They used the same bearing style as the two piece axles. I've been told I can't used the flanged bearings because the bearing will stick out of the housing .080 thousands.

 

I've resisted the urge to comment on SB, till now.
I've dealt with them on Jeep stuff before, our shop was only about 20 miles away from them in Ontario.
My experience with them was such that when it came to Jeeps, they didn't really know what they were doing or what they were talking about.
Even driving over to them to acquire replacement parts (seals and bearing for one of their "kits", 86 CJ7 axle kit) was worse than any root canal I had.
Good luck on your project Scott, I hope they get it all straightened out for your sake and your wallets.

 

Any way you can send the whole thing back to them and get your money back? Whole thing has been a comedy of errors on their part to this point. The bearing issue is exactly the reason why custom shafts must be built and you can't just put the off set flanged axles in a tapered housing. They should have known this, which is the whole reason you are paying big bucks for custom shafts. If you can get your money back it's not too late to FF that rear end. Then no more issues...... Nickmil

 

At this point I'm ready for the FF kit. I just need it with the 30 spline end. I don't want to remove the Detroit unless I have too.

 

Dutchman will build the shafts with either a 30 or 19 spline inner end so no problem there. You may have to go through R&P for the shafts unless you can do your own blue prints. I can probably help with the measurements. Then it's just a matter of machining the spindles and gathering the rest of the parts. I have some measurements for the spindle machining also. I machined mine so the axle will pass all the way through the spindle, in other words no removing the spindle to remove the axle shaft. There's more info on the write up in the Tech library.

 

I was thinking of calling Herm, unless R&P can come up with the parts.

 

Herm would be a good source IF he has his kit up and going. R&P and I were building these before Warn came out with their kit. In fact Warn came up to the shop and talked to Rich and Paul about the FF kits before they started building them. They may have some leftover parts laying around. They were the largest stocking dealer on the West Coast for Warn axle products and may have some leftover parts there also. I know they don't have any off set axles though, but can have Dutchman build them. Worth a call to both Herm and R&P....
Let me know if you need the dimensions.....

 

Can you build your own full float offset D44 rear end to have 30 spline inner and outer on the shafts? Or do you do 30 spline inner and 19 or 27 spline outer or something? I'd like to have 30 spline both sides of the shafts, even though I know 27 vs. 30 is kinda nominal difference in strength. Little bit of updated info on the build and parts available for it would be appreciated.

Also, I run 1.25" wheel spacers, and would it just be cheaper to run a wider, already built up 9" or something if I just looked around long enough for one with chromo shafts and the right gear ratio? Instead of spending 900 bucks or so on making the 44 full floater?

thanks.

 

Most people go with 19 or 30 spline inners and 27 spline outers. Reason is there are no stock style locking hubs for 30 spline and external 27 spline locking hubs are readily available. Warn built their ff shafts for 30 spline outers but the kit also included a locking hub with a special built 30 spline drive gear that is no longer available. You could also go 19 spline outer and use internal hub and rotor and locking hub like from the front of a Ford 1/2 ton/Bronco. Would give a stronger locking hub. There are several different ways to go FF on the rear, and the cost is way lower than $900. A different axle with chromo shafts and the right gear ratio is going to cost way more than a FF conversion IF you get lucky and find one that meets your criterion....
If you can scrounge parts and have some machine work done inexpensively then you can build a ff kit for around $600-$650 with good parts. There is a write up in the tech library for this. The shafts usually run about $400-$450 which is the most expensive part of the kit.

Personally, I wouldn't run a low pinion 9" in an early CJ. The 9" is a great diff in the right application, but the pinion sits way low for an already short wheel base rig with an already short rear drive shaft. This = lousy u-joint angles.

By the way, Warn no longer makes FF kits. What's available is what is left over or what other people are starting to build. Dutchman can build the shafts for you if you give them the dimensions you need the axle built to.

 

Simple thing to do would be to switch to a dana 20 t-case, and then put in either a 72-75 cj dana 44, (I think you can even find them in old postal jeeps.) or if you want wider, then a scout II Dana 44. Either way you keep your investment in your detroit locker, and you get flanged axles with the correct 5 lug pattern. Cheap, and simple.

 

It's a great suggestion CJ-X. Problem is in this area those axles bring $350-$500 in stock form as a core. I understand it's much cheaper back east to find them. The Postal Jeeps did use a centered 44 rear, but it's even narrower than a standard narrow track 44 and there are at least 4 versions and widths of those that i'm aware of, and maybe more.... The Scout 2 would be a great way to go if he wants to go wider in the front, but in this area there are some trails that if you are much wider than narrow track you can't get between the trees....
Seems very simple, but there are different circumstances here. Not trying to shoot you down or anything, just trying to make it understandable that what works and is easy in your area may not work here as the circumstances and needs are totally different.

 

Nickmil, Yep, around here, you can't give away a 72-75 Dana 44. Most of the off-roaders are rather hard-core with their builds, and none of the flatfender crowd attempt difficult trails. The ideal vehicle size for trails seems to be about the stance of a TJ (we have trees too!). Anyway, I wasn't sure of the postals, that is why I said "I think", I thought you or someone might have more info on the postals. Thanks for chiming in. All in all, if he could come up with the parts, the dana 44/ dana20 combo would work great.

 

If the centered flanged 44 is going for 350-500 what are the flanged offset 44's going for now?