Brake master cylinder issues

So I have still not resolved this issue and dont really want to take it to a pro shop and pay for what I could be doing.

The you tube link is my issue. I have replaced the "s" lines, cleaned everything that I could out of the lines and my union. I can bleed my rears but not my fronts.
http://youtu.be/MluM-OD5INk

 

If I may be so bold to ask, since no one else has, what is your brake bleeding procedure?

 

Take it to a shop and have it pressure bled. That is the best way to ensure that all air in the system has been evacuated. The master cylinder can be a real pain to bleed...

 

Did you bench bleed the m/c?

 

That doesn't look like air, looks like fluid being shot up out of the port. That makes me think you have a bad MC.

 

when I rebuilt my master cyl I had that problem had to take it apart fill the cylinder with brake fluid then put the plunger back in then it bench bled it must air lock when they have been empty

 

Long story short, that is normal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Like nickmil says.

 

I am getting ready to replace my leaking Master Cylinder on my ol' timee 56 cj5 willys. What's easier to rebuild or just replace with new one? What have you learned by your change that might make my change out easier?

 

OMG after I watched the video ,my stomach turned , mine dose that LOL.

And then Nickmil , pipes up and...... saved my evening.


PPPaaaaccchhhttt,,.... That my friend is a beer being popped open to salute you, ...bow , to you , sir Nickmil, maybey one day we will meet , and over, a few frosty ones , You can tell me about that long story!

 

Ok I'll put my 2cents in... As it has been mentioned before, definetly bench bleed the mc before you put it on. I recently converted my '66 cj5 to a dual master cylinder reservoir and could not get it to bleed all the air out, and like you I did not want to take it someplace to have it fixed. What i did was make a pressure bleeder. I used a piece of 3/16 steel flat stock just about an inch bigger than the mc. I drilled and tapped a hole just off center into the plate,big enough to thread a air line fitting into it. This would allow me to connect an air hose from my compressor to the plate. Then I took an old inner tube, and cut out a piece large enough to cover the bottom of the steel plate. Using contact cement, I glued it to the under side of the steel plate to create a sealing surface. It sounds like a lot of work, but it only took me about 30 minutes to make. Let the glue dry overnite before you use it. At this point you will need a couple of c clamps to clamp the plate to the top of the mc. You will need to make sure there is a dryer on your compressor and that it is drained of any water so you do not get any moisture into your mc. Turn down your regulator to about ( 8 TO 10 lbs) of pressure, then connect it to the air line fitting on the top of the plate. Start bleeding the rear brakes first and then do the fronts. Make sure to check the brake fluid level. This worked like a charm for me and now I have a pressure bleeder that I can use in the future. I hope this rambeling made sence and helps you out.