Hydraulic clutch stroke

My stock bearing worked after getting an adjustable pivot.

 

how did you mount the pedals? what did you remove from the cherokee because the original set up was mounted to the frame of my CJ, so what would I remove from the cherokee and how/ where did yo mount the pedals, booster, master?

 

Cherokees , CJ's YJ's late 70's through late 80's and others are all potential donors , What vehicle are you working on? Early Jeeps with floor pedals as yours unlike the later CJ -YJ Jeeps with hanging pedals have different shaped firewalls and floor pans which will normally require the donor pedal set to be modified to fit........including shortening of both the brake and clutch pedals. Some Cherokees pedal sets do have shorter pedals. In either case.............This project does take some time to get the pedals to fit correctly, have the proper pedal ratio for your brake system , have adequate floor travel & clearance while also having enough Push Rod travel for the Master Cylinder. This is not a one size fits all modification. And yes you can split the pedal between the steering column by offsetting the Brake pedal to the right while still leaving the Master Cylinder in the normal location.

Outside: 7" Dual Power Booster and Hydraulic clutch Master


Inside mount minus the Pedals. This bracket is from a YJ

 

I have a 66' CJ5 V6. That seems like a lot of work for hanging pedals. I could still use the MC and what not with original set up right? I may take your idea though, looks great., you coming to Ohio anytime soon. hahah

 

love to see the rest of the set up when its together

 

I'm using a Wilwood slave with AA pedals. I have it mounted to the bracket and the piston end connects to the clutch release arm, so the slave is stationary and the rod moves. I still used stainless braid to transition from hardline to the slave.

 

Early 90s Cherokee hanger pedals, Wilwood dual master cylinder, Cherokee clutch master and a neal clutch slave cyl. Had to cut the pedals, too long. Super close fit to the l134 carb, had to get a new fuel inlet setup. Brake pedal is to far from the gas pedal. Plan on a finger throttle on the stick shift. Plasma table cut out: the hanger pedal backing inside and out, pice to connect the brake pedal to the master and clutch slave holder. Took an incredible amount of time, money and effort to complete. But worth it.

 

I did too. It works great with the SM465 clutch fork and bell.


And Yes. The clutch forks are hardened steel and really hard to drill.