Flat Towing - Trying to separate facts from all the hype

I have been researching flat towing my 1974 CJ5. I have done lots of searches, and there is lots of information out there and that is the problem. I have found so much info that is conflicting, that it is impossible to shift through it all to find the TRUE FACTS.

I thought it would be worth trying to put together a document that definitively answers the typical question "Can I flat tow my jeep". I would appreciate if some of you experts would contribute by providing the following:

• Scanned copies of Towing instructions from either original Owners Manuals and/or Service Manuals published by Willys, AMC, Jeep (i.e. OEM).

• First hand experience with damage to Transfer Cases from flat towing. Please don't send me "anecdotal" stories that you do not have first hand experience with (i.e. "first hand experience" is either your own jeep or someone's jeep that you have in depth knowledge of). If possible please verify year and model, the type of transfer case and if it was in good condition previously to damage. That is, the gear oil was at normal level and had been changed when required.

I have started a document which can be viewed at http://www.visualsc.com/jeep_flat_towing.pdf
It is based on some information from JPmagazine which I have been able to verify fairly well from other sources. It also has excerpts from a 1974 owners manual and Service Manual. Any comments, suggestions, changes, etc are MOST welcome.

 

We have a 51 jeep here at work that gets towed everywhere. We just put the transfer case in neutral. Now in the 20 years I have been here I have only put a clutch in it and 2 starters. I did tear down the trans and transfer case only to put them back together cause there was nothing wrong. New seals and gaskets, good to go.

 

If anyone has a reason not to tow with trans in gear and transfer in neutral I would like to hear it. The reason to have the trans in gear is that some trans will not oil properly without the input shaft turning. There is always the can o worms of remove the rear driveline, or install a full float kit and locking hubs. Like the OP says, just the facts and not internet lore.

 

I have flat towed my CJ5 many times. Each time I did the following: Dana 300 TC, T-18a tranny
Put tranny in neutral
Put TC in neutral
Allowed my steering wheel to be in the "unlocked" position (it has a tilt GM steering wheel and equipped with a kill switch)

If I was towing more than 200 miles, I would remove the rear drive shaft, or stop put her in gear and allow the tranny to spin the TC to lubricate the bearings.

I have never had a problem doing this approach

 

I work part time for a shop that builds Jeep transmissions and transfer cases. I build them. I also teach manual transmissions and 4 wheel drive systems.

I have personally witnessed many, many transmissions get burned up caused directly by flat towing the vehicle with the transmission in neutral. The main shaft (output shaft) can be driven by the transfer case even when the transfer case is in neutral by the rear output shaft and gears in the transfer case throwing oil around. Much like the way a torque converter or fluid coupling works.
Unless the vehicle's owners manual specifically says to put the transmission in neutral for towing (some do) don't do it.
This is not conjecture. I've seen it first hand many times and have had to throw away many transmissions because the input gear welded itself to the mainshaft.


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Can we also talk about this in the context of type of transmission/transfer case? I believe that some transmissions share the oil reservoir with the transfer case, while others don't (like the T18 ). How would one tow in those conditions I wonder?

 

Thanks nickmil, this is exactly the info I am looking for. You hit it right on the head with your statement "Unless the vehicle's owners manual specifically says to put the transmission in neutral for towing (some do) don't do it. ". Hopefully, people will send me scanned copies of owners manuals for specific years so I can add that to my document.

 

Doesn't matter if they share oil or not. Depends on how the internals are oiled, not where the oil comes from.


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I have flat towed my CJ for over a decade. Tcase in neutral, hubs unlocked, and go! This is with a D18. For longer trips (300+ miles) I'll pull the rear driveshaft just to reduce rolling resistance & wear & tear a little bit.
I've heard that the high output cases (Dana 20 & 300) should have the rear shaft removed, as they don't oil the output bearing, but I have no personal experience with this.

 

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Guys, he's looking for factual info, not "this worked for me" info.


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So how do you intend to flat tow your 74? Follow the owners manual and put tran and transfer case in neutral, or follow your PDF document from JP mag and put the tranny in gear. My 73 is all stock and would like to flat tow less than 200 miles at some point in the future, and am now concrened why JP would contradict the owners manual?

 

Read my above post. For those reasons. Updates frequently happen as problems are found in vehicles already in service but the owner's manuals have been already issued so can't be revised. Back then there wasn't the computer databases on owners so it was difficult or impossible to let owner's know of any updates or changes that may occur.

 

Up to this point, I have been putting the transmission in 3rd. I think I will take nickmil's advice and keep it that way as I don't see that it will hurt anything. Check out his reply to your note. He makes a good point about the possibility that the owners manual did not take into account potential problems and that subsequent problems that people have experienced after the manuals were printed might change the picture.

 

Don't mind a few reports from people who have not had problems .... especially if they have towed for a lot of miles over an extended period of time. As long as it does not bog down the tread.

What I am really hoping to get is scanned copies of owners/shop manuals that show towing instructions from different years and any reports of damage to TCs that should be OK to tow 4 down.

Thanks.

 

Always an option, but what I am trying to find out is do I "NEED" to do this or is it just a "NICE TO HAVE"?

Although I will say that it is a good option and there are definite reasons for doing it (i.e. reduced rolling resistance and reduced wear and tear)

 

Although, for the price of a full float kit anymore, you can be a good ways towards a used trailer and then really be good to go.