Rear Hub Removal Trouble

I am trying to redo my rear brakes and wheel bearings on my 62 CJ6 and I am having a hell of a time removing the rear hubs. I have checked my repair manual (clymers) and all it says is "Use a hub puller to remove the hub".

I have the axle nut off and I have tried both compression type hub pullers and a heavy duty one with a slide hammer and I can't get it to budge. It there some trick to this that I can be enlightened to?

Thanks for the help!

 

You need something like this-
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=2248&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

dont use a 3 jaw on the outside of the drum it will bend. you may be able to borrow the type posted above from the loan-a-tool programs at the auto parts stores if you dont have one. also when you reassemble it make sure the taper is very clean because thats what holds it all together. The nut needs to be like 200 somthing foot lbs. i make it as tight as possible with a 3' breaker bar

 

I got this one from my local oreilly's and it just doesn't cut it.

http://oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai...-1_1798&keyword=hub+puller&pt=N2408&ppt=C2371

I'll get a better one, thanks for the help!

 

Yeah that one won't put enough force onto the hub. The one posted or one similar is basically needed to put enough ummph onto the hub to remove it.

 

Also leave the nut on loose. When they come loose it's generally violent. Also, put pressure on the puller then hit the end of the pressure screw hard with a hammer. The shock help the hub come loose

 

If you have a heavy duty hub puller, and it still doesn't budge you may have to heat the hub/drum to get it to pop free. To pull mine, I torqued the puller as tightly as I could manage using a cheater bar then took a propane torch to the hub, after 20 or 30 minutes of heating the hub it finally decided to pop free. The second side went exactly the same way. An acetylene torch would probably have been a bit quicker, but propane worked well enough. Just make sure you've got the heat on the hub and not the axle, you want the temp difference to get them apart easier.

 

I made my own puller, looks like this:

Uses a grade 8 1" NF bolt in the center

 

I had the exact same problem. After I broke two rent-a-tool pullers, I finally bought this guy and it was absolutely the best 80 bucks I ever spent! Had the hub off in 5 minutes after this baby arrived at my door step.
http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/1657/willys-jeep-brakes-hub-puller-parts-accessories

 

That's the one i bought also. Made short work of pulling the hubs, although i didn't put the nut back on the first time and the hub flew about 2 feet past me when it let go!

 

Took a heavy duty puller to get mine off too. I ended up renting one at a tool rental place for $10. That, with a BFH and a little patience got em right off... I stuck my other hammer in there to keep everything from turning.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, I think I'll be able to get them off this weekend for sure now. The next question is if they are this difficult to remove, do I need a tool to re-install them, or can I slide it on and torque the axle nut to properly install them?

 

I would not call it easy to get them on, I mean it is not like putting a lug nut on. But much easier going together then taking apart.

 

x2

 

One thing to watch out for. Is the taper key needs to go in, it does'nt jam into the axle.

 

x2

From http://www.vernco.com/RearAxle2/index.htm

I've had good luck with pullers from jcwhitney:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/professional-3-arm-hub-puller/p2007847.jcwx?filterid=j1

http://www.jcwhitney.com/3-arm-hub-puller/p2007845.jcwx?filterid=j1

 

ditto on the jc pullers i just bought one and it works great i bought the professional one for the extra few bucks

 

The key with installation is put the hub on with the keyway lined up then slide the key in. The key is tapered and if you put it on the axle it may slide up the taper and when you tighten the nut blow out the hub. Seen it happen several times.