Front End Issues

I'm going round and round with this I know my options are a degree type shim or a tie rod flip. I don't mind doing either but before I do I wanted to check with everyone to make sure I didn't do something simple wrong. On my passenger side my tie rod barely clears my leaf springs and the ball joint will actually hit and stop if I turn sharp enough. However on the drivers side I have plenty of clearance this is also the side that had really bad alignment wear on the tire when I got it. Take a look at the below pictures let me know if you either see or can think of any possiblities why there is no clearance. I put brand new leaf springs with a 2.5" lift, new shackles, and new tie rods and ball joints on my 1970 CJ5.





These are 2 pics. of the passenger side which I am having the clearance problems with.



This is the drivers side which clears no problem.

Thanks in advance.

Justin

 

are both the drag link and tie rod hitting on the pass side ?
can't tell from the pic

 

I presume you mean new king pin bearings? This axle does not have ball joints.

Some here (Patrick IIRC) added a shim and it both set the caster right and provided enough clearance for the TRE.

Another option would be a right knuckle from a Wagoneer 27/30 - it will have a hole in the steering arm for a second TRE, and will eliminate the oddball TRE.

Your only other option I can see is a tie rod flip, putting the TRE on top of each steering arm.

 

but a tie rod flip means that combination tie rod end will be the wrong direction...
and the two hole knuckle means the current tie rods can't be used, too short...
I'd find a way to shim it, unless the housing is bent or something else is causing it.

curious whether the original, smaller factory tie rods would even clear...

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/technical/steering/heim-joints-to-remove-bump-steer-and-backlash/
I had the same problem on my 70, after installing the lift. I did this, and had no more problems.

 

Easiest solution to fix clearance is a set of McRuff brand angle shims under the springs. Did it on mine when I had the same issues. Fixed it fine. You may want to do some measuring before you dive in though. Does the Jeep sit level? Is the axle level under the rig, or canted? With the wheels straight ahead, measure the the mounting surface on the knuckle when the tie rod goes to a fixed point. Are both sides equal? Make sure all is good, and then see McRuff about a pair of shims. Looks to me like the lift springs and the longer shackles ran you out of room.

 

Looks like alot of drop on your pitman arm???

 

That’s needed for the lift. Without it his problem would be even worse because the drag links first motion would be to twist the tie rod down when turning right and up when turning left.

 

I read, read, and then re-read all of your replies looked at my current setup/issues and here is my responses.

1) When the wheels are pointed straight the clearance on the long tie rod from the leaf springs is almost exactly the same 3/4".

2) The knuckles appear to be at the same angle.

3) The pumpking however is leaning forward quite a way's if I were to rotate it more vertically straight I would immediately create more space for my rods and ends.

4) I have a 4" drop pitman arm on it I had an earlier thread http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83070 asking just this question about how level my drag link needed to be compared to my long tie rod. I would have preferred to do a tie rod flip but my steering box is to far back and I was concerned about the drag link and the long tie rod overlapping? I decided to go with a drop pitman arm because tip to tip it was slight shorter. If anyone makes or I can get a shorter then stock (8 3/8" tip-tip) straight pitman arm I would change directions.

Keep the questions and comments coming let me know if more pics. would help.

 

I had this problem with that old end on the passenger side ,when I switched to a D30 I went normal independent drag/tie rods ,I used the same wedge and I also had to do a TR flipin it as well because I used cj7 springs on my 5 .

I have the stockers for sale in the classifieds (10*???) someone here will know how many degree thay are .they would work for the steering clearing springs but it would change the camber.turn the diff cover up and the pinion down,