Early Warn/belleview Winch Brake Modification

I have received several inquiries to the installation of a disc brake on the above winches so thought I would post this. The conversion consists of two adapters which bolt to the case (using existing tapped holes), a caliper mounting plate, Kawasaki motorcycle caliper, snowmobile disc, remote master cylinder, and a remote reservoir. Hopefully, the jpgs will be self explanatory. Briefly, the disc assembly only needed bored and rekeyed to fit the former brake drum shaft; the three pieces for the mounting were whittled out of 6061 stock; a remote master was mounted below the floor (7/8 is very much overkill but is what I had), on a bracket bolted to the center cross member-operated by the right hand brake level between the seats (left is mechanically linked to D18 brake), and a firewall mounted remote reservoir that feeds the master. My setup was put together sometime in the mid 70's, and there are a lot more options for building something like this now as both ATV's and snowmobiles have hydraulic disc brakes and it is likely one could just transplant a complete system. My disc is only about 3/16 thick but given the hopefully slow speed at which it works, I do not think you could ever get it too hot in operation and I do not think you can wear out a set of pads. When I first built this, my tooling consisted of a drill press, hacksaw, and jig saw. It was refined to its present configuration after I purchased a mill in 1977 and has remained maintenance free since.

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but what purpose does this serve?

I have used winches for many different applications, and cannot figure out what this would accomplish.

Thanks for the detailed write-up.

 

thanks for the info,,,the old winches dont have brakes..if you stop pulling in...it freespools......you should sell a kit

 

That would explain why I couldn't figure it out, as I have never been around old winches.

Thanks!
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Actually, all the Belleviews and the Warn versions did come with a brake. It consists of a brake hub with an external contracting band which does suffice in normal operation if well maintained. The incentive for my conversion was trying to decend about 150' of very steep slope that I had little trouble climbing the day before, but it was dry then. After a heavy rain with a little snow and now a lot of mud, I didn't feel my prospects of getting to the bottom with the wheels in the down position were very good and having been wheels up once before, I did not feel like my education needed any more lessons. I got the Willys turned around, cable secured to a large fir and started backing down using the winch brake. That worked for about 20 feet, following which I could only stop the cable feed out by hitting the power. Belleview did a pretty good job on the rest of the design because I am not sure what kind of stress was induced while powering up with the thing spinning backwards at a pretty good clip, but nothing broke. I am sure the mud and water contributed to the problem, but it was something I did not want to repeat. The disc setup went on before the next trip.

 

Not to steal your post but would a simular set up work as a D18 brake? Anyone know of a write up for it??

 

IIRC Nickmil was working on a proto for that, but I may be wrong. I know I need to make that for my Jeep as the drum sucks! on the rear... Maybe next year I'll draw em up in autocad and let the NC machine do it :tea: I like that for the brake, mine shall receive that treatment sometime!

 

Just thinking loudly, I bet you could run 2 Jamar steering brake set ups for your hydraulic assembly. One in cab with one outlet plugged up, running to a second on the front bumper for outside braking, and then to the winch...

 

Just to add some info, mid 2000 Yamaha rx1 snowmobiles used both a hydraulic brake and a mechanical brake with separate pads. the mechanical brake may be a good setup to use for a dana 18 brake. heres a pic, the hydraulic brake has been removed.

 

I have one of these winches and this modification looks awesome! Nice write up! Thanks.

 

thanks for sharing this in detail. this is now on my to do list.

 

you wouldnt happen to have the pattern for the caliper mount would you.

 

I would be interested also.

 

Great post Nickmil! great idea too, just getting my 5687 up and running

 

Now if someone could make a power out option for these also.....

 

Yes, this concept will work on 5687's and D18's. The 5687's have an internal motor brake that is supposed to keep the motor from overspeeding in the situation you describe. Obviously it can be overpowered by weight plus gravity! Like the external band brake, marginal at best. My D18 park brake is hydraulic, operated by a hand park brake lever modified to operate a master cylinder. HTH Good luck!
PS A possible option for a mechanical disk brake might be one designed for a go kart/mini bike if you want to be strictly legal.