Rust repair on Rusty

Actually, this is the way it's supposed to be wired. This way, the side marker will light when the "running" lights are on, and flash when the turn signal is flashing. This won't work with LED's, but should work fine with normal incandescent bulbs.

My guess would have been grounds.

 

Interesting, I'll look at the wiring diagram when I get home, since the light fixture is all plastic how would the circut ground without a dedicated ground wire. The rear side markers were 1 wire to tail light wire and 1 wire to ground.

 

I found a wiring diagram over on the project CJ7 page and it does show the front side markers 1 wire to running lights and 1 wire to turn signal. Rear side markers are 1 wire to running light 1 wire to ground. I don't understand how the front markers work with no ground wire. The tail lights ground thrugh the metal housing and bolted to the body but the side markers are all plastic socket and housing ? Before I changed the wiring the running lights including the side markers worked properly but when I turned the turn signal on the side marker would go off and the lights would not flash.

 

Progress is slow, Cut 3" off the steering colum, that's about what you loose by using this style of wheel.


I fixed the brake light. I guess it hasn't been working since I installed the power brake cylinder and booster. The rod that goes from the petal to the master cylinder needs to be oblong to actuate the brake light switch. the one off the later model was wrong for this style of break light switch.

 

Sorry I missed this post earlier.

The side marker light "grounds" through the other bulbs. I was surprised by this when it was first pointed out to me, but it does make sense when you work through it.

When the "running" (or "parking") lights are on, current flows through the marker light, into the turn signal line. From there, it goes through the front and rear turn signal filaments on that side, to ground. Since the turn signal filaments are higher wattage (which translates to lower resistance), and there are two of them, the side marker filament glows.

If you then turn on the turn signal on that side, the side marker has power on both sides so it turns off. When the turn signal goes off, the side marker comes on.

If the running lights are off, turning on the turn signal applies power to the TS side of the marker light. Current flows through the marker filament into the ungrounded side of the running lights. Since there are four filaments on this circuit, the marker filament lights.

 

When I saw the wiring diagram I assumed it must ground through the circuit but all other lamps worked OK so I assumed there was adequate ground. If I didn't have the radiator in I might go back and re attach the wires to the turn signal circuit and try to figure it out.

 

Working on the dash

 

Old dash



New dash

 

Dash looks great! Nice job

 

I've gotten in the habit of replacing the ground screws in the grill with 8-32 stainless screws and nuts and apply some dielectric grease on them. Awesome job on the Jeep!

 

Beautiful! getting ready to do some minor repairs due to Iowa Winters and DOT salt.

What are you using for welding?

 

I started with a Harbor Freight 90 amp unit, It worked OK but sold it and got a Lincoln 180HD. It is overkill for sheet metal but I use it also for bumpers. You can see the heat affected zone on the backside of 3/16 steel so you know you are getting good penetration.

 

Thanks. Just curious. In the 70's I brazed the sheet metal in.
This time around I will probably use my tig. Don't have a mig welder.

 

Finished for the winter. still a pesky rear main seal leak an issue with the speedo and ihe windshield.







The T18A and 360 will have to wait until next winter.