Differences between MD Juan tub and original

What are all the differences between a new MD Juan tub and the original tub for a 1963 CJ5? I am assuming the battery cover on the cowl as well as the bow pockets on the sides and rear corners won't be there. Is the jeep logo on the side stamped in the correct location or is it down lower like the newer Jeeps? Are the floors and firewall the same as original?

I am trying to decide between rebuilding my badly rusted original tub or replacing it with a new one. Original tubs in good condition are about next to impossible to find around here.

 

I got a cj3a body fit from them and it was missing the top bow brackets. The willys stamping the the hood was it the correct location. I had to notch the transfer case hole inorder to go into low range. They are fairly accurate. You will want to test fit EVERYTHING to mack sure it doesn't need to be cut/open up anything. My 3a is all together minus the paint.

 

Avoid MD Juan at all cost. If you can save your tub or find an original one, you'll be much happier. The MD Juans require a lot of fitting and some of the bends are off. The floor by the gas pedal is wrong, the tranny hole is off, and usually the fenders require you to bust the spot welds to fit them correctly. No bow pockets, no parking return spring bracket, among others. You can get a Repli-tub from Willys America which is a massaged MD tub. But seriously, find a nice used tub for $500.

 

Up in the Northeast, its near impossible to find a decent original tub, unfortunately.

 

Some things I noticed without researching a bunch...

*No Jeep name stamped on side
*Support brackets inside the rear fenders are completely different (though not noticeable unless you climb under it). They use hat channel where the originals had baffle plates.
*The windshield base post is indented (not sure why) where the original is flat

Jim

 

here is some good info from people who have been there:
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3B/Tech/ReproTubs.html

be sure to hit the links at the bottom including the one "improving the repli tub"

Tom

 

Steel is thinner, primer is junk, many spot welds are junk, trans/tunnel panels are off, no m/cyl access panel on floor, still have wood in hat channels, etc etc. If you can't do the work yourself, you'll double what you spent on the repop tub alone just getting it right.

 

Lots of opinions Pro and Con. I have read so much it is hard to know. I am considering a Replitub for my 75 because of lots of rust but haven't made up my mind. I can tell you on my 47 I have an original tub and the replacement windshield was way off on the fit, not even close. I have heard M D Juan uses original stamping dies purchased from Willys, if so wouldn't they be an exact replacement ? Keep us posted on your decision and if you go the replacement route let us know the results.

 

"original stamping dies purchased from Willys"

From the 60's? I would think that I would show some wear also..... I don't think I would look and fit the same also

 

Hi Guys. Please direct all your MDJuan questions to me

cheerio,
Rommel Juan
MDJuan

 

Hey Rommel, Do you use "original Stamping Dies purchased from Willys? as one poster suggested here? (If that was true I'd love to hear the story of how you got them!!)

 

I would rather spend the money fixing an old tub...

 

Just and FIY, the thread was from 2009.

 

nope. we made our own.

 

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I really appreciated that you are going to have improving the quality of your tubs. Anyway, I am planning to have a replacement tub vs repairing or finding a donor door. If you are going to commit to improve the quality and it can be proven, I would surely consider buying one of your body tubs. [/FONT]