Split rivet setter

If I were inclined to install the hood welting I bought for both rigs about three months ago, and if I were to use the split rivets, what's the best way to set the things? I know I could just use pop rivets and be done, but what if? I have thought about fabbing an anvil which I could mount to the upper jaw on a pair of "channel-lock" type pliers, but I haven't had much success with my fab skills. Was on the right track, but way too big. Of course I was at work and didn't actually have the rivet with me at the time; I was just bored and trying to think of something to do.........

I suppose I could just open them with a screwdriver and then mash them somehow, but even for me, that seems kinda crude. Besides, there's not much room to work under the center section in front of the radiator. Search didn't help much; how do I do this with any finesse?

 

Contact whoever you bought the welting from and see if they have a tool for it?

 

Page 11, #2402. Beats poking a hole in your fingers. Seen 'en on a few CJ's I've parted out:http://www.wesales.com/pdf/2006-2007-WEBCATALOG.pdf

 

This what your looking for?

http://www.hansonrivet.com/w78.htm

 

Got it from Walck's. I think. Didn't think about asking when I bought it. Larry, that one is for tubular style rivets, and I'd need more room to hold the anvil under the lip of the grille anyway. Still downloading the catalog; love that dial-up.

I'll check back when it finishes. Thanks for the tips, fellers!

 

That part is exactly whats on my cj from the factory.

 

The wire style is on my 70, the 61 has split rivets. I really don't mind what I use to put the new stuff on with; I was just curious how you go about setting the split style, since that what came with the new welting. I like to fab tools when I can. This may be a "can't"............. Thanks anyhow.

 

I believe a split rivet is designed to be hammer-driven energetically against a flat faced anvil. The two points will curl back around and be concealed in the material being riveted. If we are talking about the same "bi-furcated" rivets I'm thinking of.

Pete

 

Can you provide a photo of these rivets?

 

I found these rivits at a local hardware store. The problem is that you have a hard time getting to the bottom of the rivit because the shourd is in the way. I used an old plyers and ground one side into a "V" shape. This opened the rivit up a little. Then I followed that up by using another plyers to squeeze the rivit the rest of the way. Make sure you put something over the head of the rivit so you don't make tool marks on the head.

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you. If you haven't added that to the "Where to get parts" thread you should. That's what I had before the strip down and I ended up w/ those damn bifurcated rivits. I was unsuccessful at getting the middle three or four tight. But that don't matter now... :v6:

 

These be some bi-fircated rivets, Ron. You only get enough to do the job, so there's no practice to be had. Scott, that sounds like what I was aiming for, except I under-simplified the process by adding my own anvil to the plier jaw! Woulda worked, too, if, well, it just woulda, I'm sure............

Pop rivets and glue, anybody?

 

Those are the exact ones I used. Kind of hard to get them squeezed but they look nice.

 

Ah! Never seen such an animal before. I bet they used a regular pneumatic rivet gun, like for aircraft rivets, with a special dolly on the split side.

 

Now I see the pics, these are indeed meant to be driven hard against a flat anvil or dolly, without pre-speading the tips. They will curl around and back under, biting into the material, drawing tight, and burying the sharp tips - they should almost disappear.

Squeezing or spreading and clamping them them, while tempting, never will do it quite as tight, and leaves the ends exposed. Work great when done as designed.

Learned this doing Model T transmissions.

Pete