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New Tie Rod Hitting Spring

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by twiggs, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. twiggs

    twiggs Work in progress

    Hi,

    I've searched all afternoon for the answer to this, but I couldn't find it.

    I just installed a 1-peice knuckle to knuckle tie rod with a new double tie rod end on the passenger side (tie rod end with a hole cast in it for the rod from the bell crank).

    My problem is that my new tie rod hits my spring when I try to turn all the way to the left. It's the large cast part that the other tie rod end connects to that is hitting.

    I've seen others with this same set up, so I'm wondering how did you get around this? Shim the front axle (that's what I'm thinking), change tie rod ends (any others out there that work better), or just live with it (not me)?

    I'm slowly gathering parts to do a saginaw swap, and one of my stock tie rods got pretty mangled when it encountered a stump, so going back is not an option that I'm thinking of right now.

    Any input is appreciated

    Thanks,

    Jon
     
  2. 48cj2a

    48cj2a http://bantamt3c.com

  3. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Flip the tie rods - put them in from the top. There have been several places posted with the reamer and such (don't have the links handy).
     
  4. jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  5. twiggs

    twiggs Work in progress

    Thanks guys.

    I like the idea of flipping the tie rods. I think that's what I'll do.

    I seem to remember a thread about drilling the knuckle arms, then pressing in a tapered insert. Which do you think would be better, to ream or drill & press?

    Jon
     
  6. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Done both - no issues with either. Both will reqire you to open the holes on the knuckle - reaming requires new TREs to fit and make them 'not as stock' so you have to remember the size. Pressing in the inserts takes it back to stock size - just reverses the taper - and it's welded (or should be) in place.

    Get which ever is cheaper - and you can do.
     
  7. jayhawkclint

    jayhawkclint ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Mine are sitting at the shop right now. The machinist brazed in some bronze, then is going to taper and drill them out to stock size from the top so that I will be able to re-use the TREs. He's charging me $35 per knuckle, so only slightly higher than the cost of buying your own tool.
    http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/steering/bumpSteer_files/bump_steer.shtml
     
  8. panzer

    panzer Super Mod Staff Member

  9. twiggs

    twiggs Work in progress

    Cool. But why do I have to use their locknut? Will the insert make the hole in my knuckle too long for me to get the cotter pin back in my stock tie rod?
     
  10. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    yep, with the added lip on top of the kunckle. no worries thou most newer vechicles use the same type nut to hold their tre's in.
     
  11. Toolmaker

    Toolmaker Member

  12. twiggs

    twiggs Work in progress

    Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going with a spacer for now, since that will be the cheapest, and may make the jeep drive better.

    Oh, and after I opened this thread, I did find all the other related threads. If anyone else needs similar info, just search for "insert", and you'll find a lot of good discussions.

    Jon