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Removing F head exhaust valves

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by bswindale, Jul 24, 2006.

  1. bswindale

    bswindale New Member

    Good Evening, every one! I am brand new to this forum, and have sort-of inherited a 1955 CJ5 with F-Head 134. This jeep has not been run in about 6 years. Finding no compression on #2, I pulled the head and found #2 exhaust valve stuck open. The stem is rusty. I have tried to use a spring compressor to remove the valves, but can not get the roto cap retainers to move on the valve stem to release the keepers. This is true on all 4 valves. Is there a trick to removing these valves?
    This will probably be the first of many questions!
     
    bswindale, Jul 24, 2006
    #1
  2. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    not really any tricks, like all the other engines out there. you planning on a rebuild or just lapping in a new valve? if rebuilding just wack it with a hammer. guide is probably shot anyway. a good rebuild kit will have new valves and guides, and machine work will take of the seat. if just lapping a new valve, try penatrating oil.?. that might work.
     
    runnamuck, Jul 24, 2006
    #2
  3. rat_ranger

    rat_ranger New Member

    use a pickle fork to lift the valve up and give it a good whack. the picklefork will take the impact better than a spring compressor, dont ask how i know.
     
    rat_ranger, Jul 24, 2006
    #3
  4. runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    R) visons of flying shrapnel formally know as a spring compressor.
     
    runnamuck, Jul 24, 2006
    #4
  5. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    If the valve is stuck in the open position, you will never get the locks out of the keeper, there just isn't enough clearance. Turn the engine over with a ratchet on the front damper bolt, until the lifter for that valve drops back down into its bore all the way. The soak the offending valve with a GOOD penetrant like KROIL or PB-Blaster and try using a block of wood on the valve head with a mallet to drive the valve back down into its closed position. Once the valve is closed, you will have no problem using the valve spring compressor to compress the spring/keeper so the locks will come out.

    BTW- Make sure you use shop rags or paper towels to plug the oil drainback holes in the lifter valley, or I GUARAN-DAM-TEE one of the locks will end up in the oil pan. AMHIK. :oops:
     
    w3srl, Jul 24, 2006
    #5
  6. bswindale

    bswindale New Member

    Success! Sorry about the late response, I had trouble logging back into the site. I had tried all those suggestions previously except using a GOOD penetrating oil. I soaked the retainers, waited a while, then using a pickle fork substitute (wonder bar) I raised the valves and whacked them with a 2X4. Just needed a bigger hammer. The valves are in pretty good shape, just need to clean the stems up a little. The engine only has 14,000 miles, so should'nt be too worn. Thanks for the help.
     
    bswindale, Jul 26, 2006
    #6