Worm Gear Rebuild. Need Advice

Got a bottle of Cutting oil. It has lasted me a long time. I should probably look for some more since it is getting harder to find. That, the layout dye, and the spring-loaded center punches, I use all the time.

Dave

 

Do a search for cutting oil. There are hundreds of places that sell all different types online. Not many places are going to carry it locally because no one is doing this type of work as a hobby anymore. Amazon, MSC, Zoro, Mc Master etc..

 

Yes, I have. I never will again. My experience is that at least some of them have no sense of integrity in how they describe items. "Brand new" could mean hacked together from scrap in a dirt floor shop.

Mine were horrible quality, actually unusable, and they denied me a refund.

 

Copy that. I've decided to just reuse by current worm gear and polish the chipped areas myself with a dremmel.

 

Cutting oil is easy to find. Any good plumbing supply that sells iron pipe, even Lowe’s will have it. Ok the old timer in me is speaking. Lard is a good cutting oil and so is bacon grease. I have used lard quite a few times for tapping and threading in the last few years. MSC has dozens of different cutting oils. Kerosene with a little auto transmission mixed in makes a good cutting oil.

 

GREAT NEWS! I finally got the Ross box rebuilt and back together. It took 2 hrs to hone the darn bushings and I broke one of the stones halfway through and needed to run to my FLAPS to have them replace it. I used a 2-stone brake cyl hone and 3-in-1 oil.
I also polished up the worm gear using a dremel.

After following instructions from a post by Moses Ludel (as best as I could), I was able to get it buttoned up today and should be able to install tomorrow! Fingers crossed!

 

Whoa whoa whoa... where did that patent "adjuster" come from??? And why?

 

Don’t all the cool kids use TightSteers these days?

 

I was considered a "cool kid" about 50 years ago. I must have changed over the years.

 

I think you did ok. Obviously a new old stock kit and kaboodle would be ideal. What you need to avoid is relying on the tight steer for all of your adjustment. If the pins can move against the tight steer then they are not fully seated in the groove and can chip the worm more. There should be just a tiny bit of slack at either end of travel like if there was not a tight steer... just an opposing force now to get that sliver of slack. Then the tight steer can make it "feel" better in the center.