67 Cj5 Build Thread By A Rookie

practice.

 

I took about 6 weeks off while I got my neck rebuilt and am eager to get back to the jeep. I just got an email from DD fabricators that my dash is done and getting shipped out.

 

I finally got back in the shop today and planned to remove the transfer case and transmission, because it was leaking so badly. I had it “rebuilt“ but I’m not at all confident about the quality of work that was done. The drain plugs were almost finger tight (two of the main places where I had leaks), and one of the bolts to the adapter was loose. Live and learn.

I planned to remove the bell housing/transmission/transfer case as one unit exactly the way I installed it a few months ago. I disconnected the unit from the crossmember, put a jack and a wood block under the oil pan, loosened the six bolts between the bell housing and the engine block about a quarter turn, supported the transmission with straps on an engine lift, and then removed the six bolts between the bell housing and the engine block, however I could not slide the unit back and disengage it from the engine.

What simple thing am I neglecting to do? Thanks in advance.

 

I use a ratchet strap to install and remove transmission.

 

I’m wondering if it moved into gear when the strap tightened. Would that make a difference?

 

How about the xfer case mount/vibration dampener on the pass side?

 

I undid that. I left the starter motor in, but that shouldn’t make a difference, correct?

 

It shouldn't make a difference if its in gear. Not much anyway. Try the ratchet strap pulling it back and shake the unit.

 

Oh, I thought you meant to pull it up. You mean to pull it back after I pull it up, correct? Great idea.

 

Yup. The strap just keeps some constant pressure on it.

 

The strap worked great. It was stuck on the lower flywheel cover. I knew it was going to be something that should have been obvious.

 

So now the question is how much of the scab to pull off. My main problem I knew about was leaks. Do I take a peek and if everything looks good, get a seal kit and call it a day, or get the full Novak rebuild kit and replace potentially worn parts when it is out?

First look through the PTO cover doesn’t show any obvious wear.

 

Where were the leaks, other than the drain plugs?
Pan and speedo cable are common. Front and rear caps need to use thread sealer on the bolts. I’m pretty sure I even used sealer on the pan bolts even though only one or two need it.

 

It only needs what it needs.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

 

There were about six leaks I could find. Biggest ones were the drain plug. The others were random bolts, and, yes, the speedo.

I‘ll take it apart enough to get a good look inside and post some pics. Thanks.

 

Here are some photos. To my (inexperienced) eyes, it looks pretty good. There is some pitting at the rear most top gear (I still need to play with it and learn how it works), but no obvious wear on the teeth.

Any thought?

 

I wouldn’t worry about that pitting. The synchronizers are the parts that wear I believe. Yours look like minor wear.the lower shaft gears (reverse I think) look very good.

 

I found a crack in a bolt hole for the TC oil pan. There is a separate thread on that and I will post what I did when it is done.
Other than that, we had a nice 70 degree day, so I got the tub painted. I’m going to call my paint texture lime peel instead of orange peel, so I can pretend I did it that way on purpose!

 

Boy, does that bring back the memories. Looking good!

 

I never heard what the conclusion was on the fenders? My paint booth was similar to yours.