Locking Hubs On A Rear Dana 44

Can't find, or don't understand what I've seen, but how would you put locking hubs (for flat towing) on the rear axle (1962 cj5) which I am pretty sure has a dana 44. When looking at the diagram of this axle I don't see a drive flange or and splines on the wheel end. Thanks.

 

Warn used to make a kit to accomplish this, no longer made. Herm the overdrive guy sells a kit and or parts. Others here have rolled their own.

 

It's not a simple swap and there are several variations but the conversion takes everything outside the knuckle of a front axle and puts it on the rear by turning the spindle seat to fit in place of the rear axle outer bearings. Custom shafts make it all work together.

Others take mix of makes and models to have more strength and internally splined hubs.
Welcome to the full floater rabbit hole. Watch your step, it's a long way down.

 

I just take the rear drive shaft off and hang it with a ratchet strap across the frame, then duct tape the bearing caps to keep them on. It only takes a few minutes, and you don't have to jack it up. I bought a tow dolly for a small car from a Buddy, it works good for a Jeep. I keep my speed around 65 mph, just get in with the Big Trucks and relax. My truck brakes work OK with 2,800 pounds but would like to add surge brakes to be safer.

 

Full floating rear axle, but if you want to save money then like was said above, remove your rear driveshaft.

 

Did you order this kit receintly?

 

Question asked, question answered. Rear drive shaft will be removed. Thanks to all.

 

Yes, I ordered it before last year’s Rubicon trip. It’s from R and P 4wd in Oregon and is based on the original warn full floater. Much better then “the other guys”, I had that one originally and snapped a shaft on some fairly light terrain. This one was a bit more expensive but I feel like they are much stronger, 30 spline inner and outer solid shaft! He does not have a website but is very nice to talk to on the phone.

 

Thank you, I will give them a call.

 

So, did it come in the Dutchmans box? All I would need are the splined axles only.
-Donny

 

@Keys5a Correct, Dutchman makes the shafts for R and P. That’s actually how I got in touch with them because I called Dutchman inquiring about getting shafts made but they don’t sell to the general public anymore I guess.

 

They do sell to the public but these are R&P spec axle shafts. Dutchman is protecting R&P’s intellectual property.

 

Richard’s # is 503-557-8911. He is a one man show but will get back to you asap if he doesn’t answer.

 

Not to take any business away from R&P, but Dutchman would have made you replacement shafts for that "other" kit. Still not as strong as 30 spline outer but way closer. The way that "other" kit is engineered, I don't think it is as strong as a 19 x 27 spline full floater. But you don't have to guess where the shafts will break--------

That may be true but I don't see Dutchman not making these if you fully spec'ed the shafts out on Dutchman's order form for custom shafts. In doing that, you also can get 4340. As for R&P's kit, that spindle keyway cut completely through would bother me. A lot of rear axle full floater material here-one of the better threads on the topic:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/sanity-check-d44-full-floater_topic46710.html

As to the original post, I have flat towed D18 Jeeps for thousands of miles over 50 years and there isn't any need to remove the rear driveshaft. Just put the transmission in gear and the t case in neutral. Good to go-assuming there is still lube in the D18.

 

Richard is now having new spindles made instead of machining stock spindles.
That key way was never, ever an issue but of course more material is better.

If you supply all the specs to Dutchman, yes, they will make whatever axles for you but they won’t arbitrarily undercut their customers who figured out the information and get a reputation for being untrustworthy. That would be bad business on their part.

I also have flat towed my Jeep for thousands of miles before I went full float. I did it for several reasons, strength being one. Lose an axle shaft? No problem. Want disc brakes? Simple (this was before lots of info and kits were available). I’ve also noticed less drag and slightly better fuel economy with the hubs unlocked versus locked. I tried it both ways as an experiment. Less wear and tear on the towed vehicle is a plus.

 

I completely agree. I think I replaced the 11x2 Bendix brakes on my 3B with D30 disc parts in 1982. Still using some of those pieces.

 

You can flat tow a D18 t case by simply putting it in neutral (and the transmission in gear). There is very little drag difference between doing that and dropping the driveline.

 

Any gear in particular? And why is it necessary? What about a D20?

 

Top gear, direct for transmission. The transmission is lubricated by the input meshing against the countershaft so the idea is to keep it from free spinning.
I haven't heard of any issues but it also has least consequence should the transfercase fall into gear.

Dana 20 should always have the shaft removed because the output is above the oil level.

It's all about minimizing risk and opportunities for things to fail. Overall issues are uncommon but you don't want to be struck by lightning either.

 

With a constant mesh transmission, The input drives the countershaft, which spins all the gears on the mainshaft. To shift, you slide a locking ring which locks the selected gear to the mainshaft, forcing it to rotate at that particular speed. Since all the gears spin independent of the mainshaft and they won't turn with the engine off, having the mainshaft turning without the countershaft spinning can cause the gears to dry out. Putting the transmission in gear will keep the mainshaft from spinning.

The D20 uses two tapered bearings up in the output shaft housing. There is a small well to hold oil but without the other gears spinning to replenish any oil lost to splashing, they can dry out as well.