Pull The Engine Or Drop The Transmission

Ok, I’m getting bad clutch noise when the pedal is down. The ‘62 M38A1 is powered by a 225 V-6. The problems began after it was put on a static display that flexed the frame enough to keep the clutch from disengagement.

 

I roll up on ramps then drop the transmission and transfercase separately using alignment pins. There are a lot of brittle old wire connections and radiators, grills, and fenders that have to be undid for the engine to come out. Transmission and transfercase is mostly bolts and more bolts with a speedometer cable for variety.

 

Did you try adjusting the clutch?

 

Whats the clutch mechanism? The ball and tube arrangement is known to get fussy under flex / wear.

 

check the stay cable.
Tell it to sit and stop barking

 

x2

 

One diagnosis would be that the throw-out bearing going south.

 

The clutch is activated via a cable and pulley. The cable seems to be properly adjusted. I’m going to try a bore scope to get a better understanding of what is going on before disassembly. Thanks for everyone’s input, dropping the transmission and transfer case wins hands down.

 

You said “again” so you must be getting good at it!

 

Yes indeed, but I have discovered that practice doesn’t always make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect!

 

The transmission is heavy and awkward and Has to be lifted up. There’s a lot more parts that have to be removed from the engine. But a hoist makes the removal easy. I still vote for removing Transmission.

 

I lay the windshield down and use a cheery picker on my F134, might not work with a V6, they are farther back to the rear. Good Luck.

 

another drop transmission
done it several times over the years

 

Flexing the frame on a "static display" would not destroy the throwout bearing, but it could alter clutch adjustment. You said you checked it and the adjustment seems fine, but before I started taking it apart I would tighten the cable a good bit, work the pedal a few times then readjust it to proper free pedal. If it still makes noise you need to look inside as you mentioned to see if you spot anything wrong. Make sure the clutch fork has not came off the pivot.

 

+1

 

If it does end up being the throw out bearing, make sure it is well lubed. I've had to replace mine twice in the last 3 years due to dry bearings. They were toast when I pulled them (all from the same vendor). The last one I inspected before installing.....and the grease in the bearings was old and was in a (solid) texture from sitting on the shelf forever. I used the grease in the palm method to repack the bearings. So I am also in favor of dropping it from the bottom....good luck

 

I can go either way. If the bellhousing and exhaust bolts are easy to remove, and you have a place/equipment to do it, I like pulling the engine.
If you go the transmission route, I suggest you keep the trans/t case together.

 

I've done that, but it is heavy. A come-along rigged as a hoist can help.

 

My issue is the possibility of the transmission mainshaft falling back out of the casing, causing a tear down to replace the pocket bearings.
I use a cheap HF tranny jack which is a real help.