Flange Or Butt Weld On Replacement Rear Corners?

The replacement corners from Classic enterprises... '51-'83 CJ-5, CJ-6, M38A1, M170 Jeep Rear Corner Lower Repair Section

Does the flange type mounting collect/trap moisture? Would it be better to cut off the flange and butt-weld the panels on?

 

That depends on how good a welder you are. I am not such a great welder so would use the flange, MIG weld it, and seal the backside with something.

A friend of mine welded in a patch panel on my CJ2a dash which he butt welded with a TIG welder. He did an absolutely beautiful job with no gaps and needing very little dressing to get it perfectly flat with no filler needed. After paint the repair was invisible, but I don't know anyone else who welds as good as he does.

 

That flange adds strength and will help fend off heat deformities during the welding process. I’d try to keep it and go heavy on the seam sealer afterwards.

 

I own a body shop that does a lot of rust repair. We almost never flange weld stuff bcuz it’s really difficult to seal it completely from rust. I cut out these types of repairs quite often and butt weld them. I will be replacing one of those on my CJ6. Just My Opinion

 

I did the flange welding on my old first gen Toyota pickup. Didn't last. Those beds were poorly constructed anyway and all rusted out. This rusted back through siting in the garage. After I had sandblasted and used weld thru primer, then primed and painted the patch, it still came through.
If I ever finish this pickup, I will probably get a reproduction fiberglass bed.

All the repairs on the Jeeps now have been butt welded and I haven't seen a return of any rust. They are in the garage also.

If I take the time to do it, I will butt weld my patches from now on.


Dave

 

I would just straighten the existing corners.

 

Practice your butt welds then see how you feel.
Whatever you do, you likely need armor...

I've seen Scott's driving.

 

Ouch!

 

From a fellow hammer and dolly guy, Buildflycrash’s quarters look easily fixable once that filler is ground off!

 

I find that large amounts of filler cover some small damage.
Sometimes I find a small dent you can hammer out under a gallon of Bondo.
Regardless, removing the excess filler and straightening the steel underneath is a good start.


Working in small steps with a hammer and dolly can really fix a lot of damage.




Dave

 

X3 on repairing the existing panel. Grind/sand the bondo off an see what you have. Pretty easy access for hammer/dolly work.
-Donny

 

Right, that looks repairable to me. I would grind out the bondo. The flat part of the steel is easy to cut out and repair if you need to. Seems likely there's no need to replace the entire panel.

 

Its just my opinion, based on experience, but its still an opinion.
If you are going to use your jeep for ice cream runs, fire road riding, pavement mounding....... Your fine with some filler on the rear corners.
If your going to use your jeep for the above.... plus ranch work, hunting, rubicon... ect then you are better off to have as little filler as possible on the jeep. Especially the rear corners!
I can carefully hammer and dolly out quite a bit of damage without disturbing too much paint. Try that with filler and you have a mess.

 

Here is the best way I have seen to butt weld new metal to old.
Cut the replacement about 1-2 inches lager than needed.
Screw it in place then cut the weld line thru both pieces.
Peel new piece away and old as you tack to the body.
Then grind and finish for paint.