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Freakin' Bolts

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Don X, Jun 1, 2021.

  1. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    I snapped of a bolt that is inside the block of my fhead. I'll blame the bolt and not me just because that makes me feel better.

    I had to remove the exhaust manifold and valve inspection plate in order to expose it. Now I need to drill it out. In case you are wondering if there's a question here there is.

    What are some recommendations to keep the bolt filings from dropping.into the valves? I'm thinking if using some plastic bags to tarp of the exposed parts. Anything else I should try?

    Ask a sidenote, I was worried about removing the exhaust bolts because they were in place since at least the early '60s or as long as '52.

    I used a MAP gas torch to heat everything up and then some penetrating spray. They came out fairly easy. I've always been lucky using a torch. Two of the studs came out with the nut. That will make it easier to replace the studs.

    PXL_20210531_212119988.jpg

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    PXL_20210531_220214965_compress64.jpg
     
  2. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    I forgot to take a pic with the side cover off. If you're not familiar it covers the valves.
     
  3. Jw60

    Jw60 That guy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Considering that bolt lived in oil I don't think any more oil would help. It's gonna look like your delivering a baby before you can start drilling.

    Good luck and don't forget the ice chips.
     
  4. Michael Wedin

    Michael Wedin Member

    Finish getting the side cover off if you haven't already. Put shop towel , plastic, and use you "favorite" method of removing rest of the bolt. May even use a small magnet to pick up small filling after you have drilled, which I assume you will be doing. You were lucky with the heat and the fuel pump right there.
     
    Rick Whitson and Don X like this.
  5. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    If you're going to drill it smear lots of grease around the bolt/boss to grab the chips and put some paper towel in the lifter gallery to keep any errant ones falling through onto the cam & into the crankcase.
     
    dozerjim and Don X like this.
  6. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    I have the cover off. The fuel pump, fuel lines and fuel tank are all dry.
     
  7. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    The exhaust manual studs bottom out. They don't go into the block cavity. Or do they?

    Wot???
     
  8. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Magnets and grease.
     
  9. Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    You didn't say whether you snapped the bolt during tightening it, or trying to remove it. If during tightening it may have bottomed out which will make extraction more difficult.

    Get a few sizes of left twist drill bits, and matching extractors. The bits turn counter clockwise and sometimes the bolt will come on out as the drill bit bites in.

    Drill the hole as close to center as you can and use a good quality extractor, but you want to be careful not to break the hardened steel extractor off in the hole. That is a nightmare to remove, been there, done that.
     
  10. Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Is there any way to weld a 7/16 " or 1/2" hex head nut on that stud ? . That would be a sure fire way of removing it before drilling , with No chips or plastic , IMHO.
     
    windyhill likes this.
  11. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    might need to make some sort of offering to the jeep gods
    just to help move things along :waiting:
     
  12. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    There is a fair chance that without tension on it, it may spin right out with a left hand bit.

    If not, I usually just center punch the stub, then use progressively larger drills until the threads peel out.

    Eze-Outs are the spawn of satan. They only come "out" when it's "easy."
     
    windyhill, cadwelder, Dandy and 3 others like this.
  13. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    It's not one of the studs that's giving me the problem. It's a bolt. It's hard to tell in the 2nd pic but the break point is slightly recessed.
     
  14. Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Thats one of the few bolts I have never broken off myself. I use a vacuum cleaner as close as I can to where I am drilling to catch the shavings. I try not to run high rpm's on the drill, usually in the 500-600 rpm range.
    Good luck!
    -Donny
     
    Don X likes this.
  15. Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    There are some good ideas presented in Youtube videos for removing a broken bolt that is recessed.

    "Ese-Outs" are not the only type of bolt extractors, there are better ones. Do a search on it, I watched a review of several types that was informative.
     
  16. garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    You can weld a washer on that bolt then use a large nut, say one for a 5/8" bolt. The weld will not stick to the cast iron. Use a 5/16" washer because they fit tightly on a 3/8" bolt (or 1/4" washer for a 5/16" bolt).

    I snapped the bolt off that holds the exhaust pipe to the manifold trying to take it apart. I should have heated it before removing but I was in a rush. Anyways, it was sunken in like this. Took several attempts and lots of heating, but I got the stubborn thing out. I hate drilling. I save that as a last resort.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2021
  17. Chris Insull

    Chris Insull All roads lead me back to the beach... 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Regardless of method used, remove any item blocking clear access to the broken bolt. Fender and fuel pump if not already done. If drilling is required, this will help mitigate a miss drill/ further damage.
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  18. Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

    I'm away from my Jeep and trying to source the replacement bolt for what I snapped. The bolt is indicated in the diagram below but there's no description or P/N. Does anyone know the size, thread count and length? 3/8" seem to come to mind but I'm not sure.

    The end of the bolt is slightly tapered. Does anyone see a problem if I use a regular bolt. Seems to me that it's tapered for a purpose. It's not anything that would be done randomly.

    upload_2021-7-1_11-15-41.png upload_2021-7-1_11-15-41.png
     
  19. Lockman

    Lockman OK.....Now I Get It . 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Don,
    I'm not sure of the specific measurements But you could take your other cover bolt to a local Hardware store. Try for a #5 grade or higher.
     
  20. jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Im sure its just tapered for ease of assembly. Its a shot in the dark to get it threaded at the other end of the lifter gallery
     
    Don X likes this.