When A Half Gallon Of Coolant Comes Out The Right Side Exhaust....

Y’all are right. I’ve had fenders off plenty of times. I need to replace a couple of missing blind nuts and that all becomes much easier.

 

If it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all. At least it happened now instead of on the Rubicon.

 

Took the head off this morning. A piece of the steel gasket rim was loose in there. The broken area is between the cylinder and one of the head bolts. Gasket around the water ports looks good.




I cleaned up the head a bit with brake cleaner and a Scotch-Brite pad.

 

Do I just throw it back together?

 

I would be sure all the head bolt threads and bolt holes are cleaned up with tap and die, for accurate torquing.

Ideally, the face of the head could be checked for absolute flatness. Perhaps at a machine shop.

 

I would clean the block and head, and measure for flatness. A shop would use a special bar and feeler gauges for this; I would use a machinist's rule first. There should be a flatness spec in the FSM. I'd think any gross warpage would be easy to see that way. You could have the head surfaced if needed. I'd also look for cracks. An aftermarket head gasket came out; someone's been in there for some reason.

 

Driver side took some damage sometime in the past.

 

Look for any abnormally clean spots anywhere in the combustion chambers. Any coolant leakage while running will literally steam clean the carbon in that area. It might help locate the source.

 

I’ve successfully used sand paper on my cylinder heads of Subaru to clean and level the head. Avoid using a whiz wheel on right angle grinder.
Cylinder Head Resurfacing - LEFT LANE BRAIN

 

What do the other cylinders/ piston tops look like? Have you ever done a compression test on this engine? What was your oil pressure like?
I'm going somewhere here... if money is not a problem..... There's enough time before this summers fun.....

 

There was nothing particularly clean on either head or on the block.

 

If he were closer it wouldn't be anything to valve job it and resurface just to get it back into action. Problem is there's no telling how much twist or warpage is present on the block and head without checking with a straightedge. Older stuff is more forgiving though...

 

Money and time are both short for this project. We have a camping trip planned in a couple weeks. I'm going to run it to a local machine shop and have them look at flatness and see if they can do anything with the valves in a day or two. otherwise its getting put back together with this operation >

 

looks like it ate a screw . once upon a time

 

Probably fell off the air cleaner hold down.. well, that’s what mine did.. slap it back together .. vroom vroom!!

 

Well in that case I say run it!

 

Strongly suggest you measure the head flatness yourself. Borrow the ruler if you need to, and buy a feeler gauge. Easy.

 

I'd also recommend running it as much as possible before the trip.

Last minute tune-ups open the door to road-trip disaster. BTDT.

 

Got ya' Tim, We are going to as good a job as we can. I bought a cheap valve lapping tool and the compound so that will be part of the work as well.

Yeah, I work only a few miles from home so it will be on the road several times before we do any Travel/Wheeling with it.

 

Should I use my Dremel tool to soften the edges of the damaged spots or just run that?