Rust Assessment And Opinions

I did some rust assessment today and this is what I’ve discovered. I’m curious to see what you guys think of it. I’m up for the challenge of welding in panels but I want the opinions of more experienced people.

 

Measure often, write everything down. Take pictures and Maybe take a video. Otherwise you may go to put a hardtop on and find the bed to be 1/2" short on one side

 

Is there a picture? I can't see one.

 

There should be 7

Here is a link just in case.

Rust

 

I didn't realize it, but you have a Tuxedo Park Mklll there! Should be a '63?
The rear wheelhouse cushion was the first thing I noticed, then the upholstery on the drivers seat, then the front bumper.
That will be a lot of work, but I've done worse. I say I won't take on a rough project again, but I always seem to anyway. Besides, this is a Tux!
It looks like all the floors and hat channels are the biggest items. My guess is there was carpet at one time? Much of the rest are flat panels. I asume you have a MIG welder?
-Donny

 

How is your welding skills Aiden?

Looks a lot like mine actually.
Half way through the repairs at the moment.

I am using tread plate for the cargo area floor, and 16 gauge sheet to repair everything else.

You will find a lot more to repair once you start looking closer and removing the bits you can see easily.

I had the pleasure today of discovering a heap of body filler in the panels that I thought were nice and straight.
The previous owner was an artist with the bog.

 

Seems like the usual rust we all see in those places where dirt and moisture sit.
Clean it well, remove the old filler, measure carefully. I make the repair panel before cutting out the old one.
Then I put the new repair panel (usually 18 ga. cold rolled steel) up against where it will sit and scribe around the new patch panel.
I cut out the old inside the line I scribed and carefully cut to the line so the patch panel fits well for welding. Since I have ground the area to bare metal, I usually use Blue Machinist Layout ink so the scribed line will show up well.
When the new panel fits well, weld small places and let it cool, moving around a lot or the metal will stretch from the heat and it becomes a mess to straighten. Too much heat and all of a sudden the metal is wavy and your back to square one. You want that discolored HAZ (Heat Affected Zone ) to be small and about the same all around the patch panel. This will assure you less filler. Too much grinding can heat up the metal and cause problems also.

Taking you time is the most important thing.

I have to make myself slow down and not weld too far. Do one patch at a time so you can feel like your making progress.

Hate the rust under the tool box. Still trying to figure out how to fix that with out removing the tool box on the M38A1.
Best to remove the spot welds and remove the tool box and put in a new floor, the replace the tool box. On replacing the tool box, its best to source an old one from someone on the forum, the replacement I got was not right.


Good luck, just takes time.


Dave

 

some aftermarket are available
front section . still would require some work to make fit

Omix-ADA 12007.08 Floor Pan Front 1970-1975 Jeep CJ5 1970-1975 CJ6 One Piece | eBay

didn't look for rear section

 

From my recent experience, here is my advice: 100% pay someone to sandblast it. Having an honest assessment of exactly what you are working with will allow you to make a solid plan of attack. Finding new problems while fixing known problems will drive you crazy and then you will end up posting about your struggles on ECJ5 like me.

Secondly, old Jeeps are cheap. Don't be afraid to find a junker with a good tub and swap it onto yours before selling the rest of it for parts. 95% of the time this is easier and more cost-effective.

 

This is sound advice! After sand blasting, you will have a lot less good metal left than you think. Aside from the obvious areas, you may find the tops of your quarters where the wheelhouses attach are a problem area.

I’m repairing mine, and by the time I’m done 75% of it won’t be original metal. It’s a lot of work, but rewarding if you can see it through. My next project will likely get an aftermarket tub to save time.

 

Yeah there was a carpet in the rear and rubber floor mats up front. I do have a MIG welder and I’m taking a welding class soon so I’ll be able to actually use it.

 

What do you think about making my own tool box?

 

Making your own tool box is do-able, but requires metal working tools I don't have. Not to mention skills I don't have either.
i took an old tool box missing parts to a metal meet and asked how to build another one and the steps and tools required were above my head.

The repo tool box I have was thinner metal but could be made to work using the old tool box lid and some metal messaging to make it fit, I just sourced a new one.

Dave

 

By the time you replace the metal to get rid of the rust, there won't be anything left of the original tub. I would get a repop tub and not even think twice. My CJ6 was in the same shape, complete with plywood patches. I ordered an Aqualu body and have been so happy ever since. Both my son's Jeeps will get a MDJuan tub to start. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.

 

Curious what everyone thinks is the best type of blasting to clean up a CJ5 tub and assess its condition for repairs? Soda? Media?

I’m trying to find a shop in Reno to sublet this task to cause the wife doesn’t want any more (wet) play sand on the side of the house.

 

Well, it's a Jeep, rust... you like welding but days are only 24 hours. Maybe better/cheaper to get new tube or parts, just question of money. The idea is not only to train for welding, but also to drive a nice Jeep with friends or family in a beautiful sunshine day.