Another Brake Line Question

I have had good results using the tool that Eastwood sells for making double flares on steel or NICU tubing. Beware trying to flare stainless steel tubing, even the Eastwood tool couldn't make a good double flare on some stainless tubing from SSBC. I did get a good flare after doing a heat anneal on that stainless tubing.

Don

 

As mentioned, stainless is harder to work with, especially when flaring. I also have the Mastercool flare set that works well, about the only tool that consistently does the job. At least once done in stainless. It will nearly outlive the rest of the vehicle.
-Donny

 

Does anyone have any overhead view pics of the OEM front brake lines on their rig with the body off the chassis?

 

Thank you! I was thinking to myself that is what I need to do and you beat me to it.

 

X2. It’s what I did. Made all my own lines too.

 

I think I'm going to run some bailing wire as a mockup, or maybe Tig rod before I crack into the CuNIFer reel I have. My mentor on this project is too buried in his own world to help me any time soon so since I'm on my own I invested in some brake line tools.

This 4-way fitting is buried somewhere outside in the snow on the old lines....will I be digging it up out of the snow if I don't have a replacement?

Wouldn't it just be a line from the front reservoir of the cylinder to a 3-way Tee that sends line to each of the LF/RF wheels?

It's early and I haven't had all my coffee yet and I'm scratching my head thinking about where all the lines go to/from this 4-way.

Pic of someone else's build:

 

That's got to be for a single reservoir master cylinder. '66 will have a single reservoir MC.

 

I have added a dual reservoir kit (Herms)...so am I missing anything with this rough layout?

(EDIT - Changed out the diagram and added the actual connections to the PVC-B Proportioning Valve)

 

Looks good to me!

 

@tripilio Did you install the PVC-B proportioning valve? If so curious where you installed it?

http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/PVC-B_PVCB-diagram-guide.pdf

 

I am starting to wonder since one of the things i just recently did was rebuild my brake system from the PO. I know he/she did not put a proportioning valve in the system. There is only the "T" on the front axle and rear, but the PO did place an import Vacuum Booster with a dual master cylinder.

So would it be safe to say with a dual master cylinder a proportion valve is not required?

 

Although I am by no means an expert, I think it is advisable on a vehicle, like mine, with discs up front and drums in the rear to be able to meter the hydraulic pressure differently between the two systems.

I'd love to hear from anyone else that runs one about where they put it. My mechanic buddy suggested the firewall for ease of adjustment, but I'm thinking on the frame rail aft of the master cylinder. I know it won't be the easiest location to get to under the body but I'd rather not have to deal with body/frame (pigtails) and I'm months out from putting the tub on and I want to get this part of the project done.

Does anyone see any issues with installing it here?

I don't have stock exhaust so until my Waldon's order shows up I only have this other user's picture to go on: