Cj5 Clutch Conversion

I am planing to convert my clutch to hydraulic and I'm looking for a true and tried approach. I have an F134/T90/D18 set. I was thinking about a pull style slave but I do not know where to attach it to yet. I was contemplating the option of drilling and tapping the two bosses on the side of the T90 that are leftovers from the side shifting system to use them as attachement points. Any idea is welcome. Thanks.

 

Not the same drive train as you are asking about, but maybe use this for ideas.
I made this bracket for my 225 / T14 / D20.


I bent flat stock steel into the shape of the letter C and welded it on the side of the triangle bracket so that it "cups" the boss on the transmission. To the rear of that I anchored it with a bolt through a spacer into the threaded hole on the transfer case. On the D20 that hole was previously used for the mechanical clutch torque tube pivot stud.
This bracket is a very solid setup and work well.

 

My compliments, very sanitary work!

 

Nice job.

 

I’ve had the same. What are you thinkin for pedals?

 

OzFin, awesome fabrication! Very clean! Is that a pull slave? Can you provide part numbers for the slave and master? Thanks!

 

Here is a link to the slave I used.
Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-1333


The master, except the one I used was not e-coated.
Wilwood Disc Brakes - MasterCylinder No: 260-15098

 

I did mine with a push cylinder. Made the bracket and a push rod. Bracket attaches to the bell housing bolts. I had the mechanical linkage set up for a really easy pedal and wanted to keep that with the hydraulic conversion. I used the dorman catalog to look up specifics on master and slave cylinders until I got an area ratio close to the mechanical ratio. It worked out great. It does have a pretty short throw for the release but once I drove it a bit it doesn't bother me at all. Pedals are from an intermediate.

Master
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H0W0RG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Slave
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYG9EG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Looks awesome, but I have a different bell housing. I have an F134. In my case, the fork is fully enclosed by the bell housing and a cable pulls through a hole in it. I don't think I can do it like that.

 

I just learned about so-called hydraulic throwout bearings. It puts the slave cylinder in the bellhousing with the throwout bearing. Seems simple!

 

Oh yeah, I forgot about that! I have an F134 too, but I swapped the bell housing to use a different transmission.

 

I’ve heard of people using internal slaves on a F134 but I’ve never seen any pics or details of a project.

 

I've heard a lot of negatives about the hydraulic slave inside the bell housing. Mostly that they aren't very reliable, and you're pulling the motor or the transmission to fix it.

At least an external slave is easy to fix. You aren't trail fixing an internal one.

 

Everything I’ve ever seen with an internal slave has broken at least once.

 

When I worked at the 4wd shop, the most frequent job I did was replace leaky YJ throw out bearings.

 

...and they are pricey!

 

Nope, this was in Auburn, PA.
Maybe ‘99-ish

 

Internal slave cylinders and hydraulic throw out bearings are 2 of the worst automotive innovations in history. Just my .02.

 

I generally dislike the internal slaves since they are a bear to replace. That being said, this isn't being put behind an engine that will go 200k-300k between rebuilds. An F134 would be lucky to outlive its clutch. In that frame of thinking, on top of the fact that no OEM mounting bosses exist for an external, I wouldn’t mind an internal on this application.