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Wiring-what Does This Do?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by colojeepguy, Sep 28, 2019.

  1. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Just a comment - the transmission-mounted backup light switches are always a pain. Usually it's the connector that stops connecting, from what I've noticed. We have annual inspection here, and the backup lights have to work. They nearly always require some fiddling.

    A resistor inline will limit the total current, but as mentioned, it will also act as a voltage divider and make the lights dim. A better approach IMO would be to substitute LED bulbs, which typically have a resistor in series with the LED and draw a lot less current. Incandescent bulbs draw a lot of current at turn-on , since the cold filament has a much lower resistance than when it's 'incandescent' (10x? 20x? something like that). This could be part of the issue. The two 1157s could be drawing as much as 20 or 30 amps momentarily when switch contact is made.
     
  2. TonyM

    TonyM Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    My system is 6v but I just installed these LED 1157s tail/stop lights to replace my incandescent 2057s. MUCH brighter than the 6v incandescents with a much lower power draw. I'm sure they come in 12v as well. The only drawback that I've had so far with these is that the difference between the tail and the stoplight brightness, while definitely there, isn't as dramatic as with the incandescents. There's a difference when you push the brake pedal, dont' get me wrong, but it would be better if the tail light brightness was a little less. Anyway, remember, these are 6v: 1157 LED Bulb - Dual Function 19 LED Forward Firing Cluster - BAY15D Bulb | Super Bright LEDs
     
  3. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    OK I did find this-

    [​IMG]

    :)

    SW-EM Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Investigation

    From reading their post mortem on a failed switch I suspect that original switches were made with something akin to Bakelite to hold the contacts where new ones use a thermoplastic material that's melting.
     
    Glenn, Focker, Twin2 and 1 other person like this.
  4. ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    I know it’s not the same animal, but ever since I had an in-line brake light switch catastrophically fail on my dirt bike, I’ll never use another one. It blew the top out and lost all pressure. Trusting the molded end with hundreds of PSI of pressure (and my life) when it can be avoided just seems silly to me. Find a way to make a limit switch work and be done with them forever.

    [​IMG]
     
    47v6 likes this.
  5. colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    Finally a solution! :lol:
     
  6. NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

    How about installing a relay. Use the brake switch to trigger the higher amp load of the lamps. Doing so would also create brighter light emitted from the signal.
     
  7. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    See post #30 and forward in this thread. Doubtful it would affect brightness much, unless the relay were close to the lights and the feed wire were larger gauge than the original harness.