Axle Removal Need Help

Going through this right now to replace the seals. Passenger side came right off, no issues. Drivers side brake drum is seized on. Have a wheel puller, slide hammer, and cannot get this brake drum to give. Last effort will be to cut the brake drum off and replace. Hoping someone else has run into this before and knows a trick. Thanks, 68' CJ5 V6.

 

Will the drum rotate?

 

At first it did not, but I found the release for the brakes from the back. Got the brakes released and the drum does not turn.

 

Which rear axle ?
If it's tapered axle, you'll need a puller; drum is swaged to the hub.

...do you have a flanged axle in your 68 ?

 

I have the original Dana 44 rear axle with the offset diff. Not sure if it is tapered or not.

 

Axle looks just like the one in this diagram.

 

Have a hub puller from Advance on there now. Nut is off and have cranked as much as we can with a breaker bar. As yes, plenty of swearing along the way. Picture of the puller on the hub.

 

Sorry, here is the picture.

 

Yes, we switched to the Grade 8 hex head bolt as the one that came with the puller stripped out. We will try again with some heat and see what we can do. Thanks for the help

 

Thanks as always guys. Started with the rear axle figuring it would be the easier of the two. I will get a different hub puller ordered. All the parts shops carry the same loaner tool.

 

Got the new puller (and nut back on). Lets hopebit pops off this time.

 

Apparently the tapered axles are a total PITA when taking them apart but is there any way to mitigate the struggle in the future?

Is it a lack of lubrication?
Corrosion?
Dirt or filth?
Or is dis-assembly with lots of harsh language just the nature of the beast?

I was never exactly certain what I had (still a newb) until you mentioned that one feature. Thanks.

 

UM...... I may be wrong , but I was told to never use a torch for heating an axle. Soak the bejeebers out of it.... Tranny fluid & kerosene or Liquid Wrench.

 

Heat the brake drum, not the axle. Heating the brake drum will expand the metal and if there is rust may break the bond. Just take a propane torch and heat it for a few minutes and try it. Do it a few times and see what happens.

 

My understanding - this is simply a feature of tapered axles. The taper wedges very tightly, and it's a big nut with a big torque value. You kinda want that kind of bond between the hub and the axle in service... Makes you wonder what enabled the switch to one-piece forged axles and flanges in that era.

 

The new puller you recommended Focker worked perfectly. Just needed a little love tap from the BFH and popped. Now to continue with the seals. Nothing like a day project turning into a two week project. Thanks as always guys.