1975 Steering Wheel Swap

I'm too fat and need a smaller steering wheel. Looking at a Grant of some sort but first need to get the bus wheel off. Poked at the horn button a little. Does that just pry off? I've seen all sorts of warnings about pullers etc. Any tips or tricks to know? The 17'" wheel is too big but I'm a little worried about what size would be getting too small. Advice there? Finally- seems like a slight dish in the wheel would help with belly spacing. Any thoughts?

 

Mmm. I would keep the bus wheel and move the seat back. Lots of posts about this if you search. Try "wheelhouse notch."

First post - welcome from Boston!

 

Heres the link to the blueprint after looking online...

Drivers Wheel House | ECJ5

Hers a link to a previous question about same thing, but with pics...

Fender Well Mod For Seat Room

 

Thanx for the welcome. My fiberglass tub has me leery. Maybe down the line.

 

Fiberglass is even easier. No welding. You can get cloth and resin at most auto parts stores. Good luck and post up pics of the progress.

 

Note that the intermediates ('72-75) have a more outboard seating position than the earlys. The diagram posted earlier will not work for an intermediate - the notch will need to be wider.

 

I changed to power steering and a small steering wheel in my 73 CJ5. I'm so glad I did. Room for my belly and it turns with ease even in tight spots and going slow. If you make this change do lots of study online first, especially on this site. Lots of folks have done this and most really love the change. PS - I also did a wheelhouse notch. Gives you even more room.

 

JMO - If I had to have a different wheel, I'd likely go with an aftermarket column that has a self-cancelling turn signal switch built-in. Flaming River and IDidIt are a couple brands to check out. The original column and switch are in demand as both replacement and conversion parts, so you could make back some of your parts cost for the hot rod column. The GM column from a '76-up CJ might be another option. Either will require some adapting/fab work.

As mentioned, the large diameter wheel helps a lot with leverage if you have standard steering. It's not as critical with the Saginaw steering in a '75; still, most want to run big tires today, and the combo of manual steering, small steering wheel and big tires will make maneuvering at low speed difficult.

 

I agree with the idea of going to a aftermarket column and then choosing a steering wheel that works for you.I have found that a 14" wheel just doesn't feel right to me. The larger diameter wheels 15" to 15 1/2" are available but costly. I changed the wheel on my classic truck from a grant 14" to a Billet Specialties 15 1/2" .The feel and handling is like night and day. Just something to consider. mike

 

Good point on the loss of leverage. Forgot about that! Back to the drawing board.

 

Stock wheel has no offset. Most sporty small wheels have offset, AND an adapter ring, which moves the wheel back toward you. Depending on the girth of your paunch, and the protrusion/sag proportions, a smaller wheel may be better or worse.

 

Here’s my solution in my ‘75...

While I didn’t need the “belly room” I did want the steering wheel out of my lap. I moved the whole steering column up on the dash. Starting with pulling the column, I cut and added about 3/4” just above the bottom of the dash mount.



Then I cut the same radius that was in the dash behind the column up the same 3/4”.



Finish up with drilling four new holes and then give the firewall support a little tweak to match the new angle.



Most CJ people don’t even notice but it made a HUGE difference.

 

Did that change any driving components?

 

Nope. All stock throughout.

 

Can you post a picture under the hood where you added some support?

 

Nothing more than the factory put there.