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Was A Colorado, Now A Florida Jeep

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by BobH, Aug 24, 2019.

  1. BobH

    BobH Member

    This is going to be a long and slow build.
    Just so everyone knows, this is a bone stock 1960 CJ5 that bubba has been working on for years.
    I bought it from my wife's Aunt who's husband died and she didn't know what she was going to do with it. She is in her mid 60's (like me) and she learned to drive in it so it has been in the family for a LONG time and she wanted to keep it that way. She cried when I said I wanted to buy it.
    Ok, so much for history.

    After replacing the ignition switch and head light switch, it now starts and runs well and has head lights and tail lights. Still no brake lights or turn signals, but that is for later. The project now is to make the brakes to work. They do a little to slow it down only. First question, should I need a puller to get the drums off the front? They start to slide off then barely hit the back side of the hub.
     
  2. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    No puller needed for the front. Does it have locking hubs? How far do they actually move? Maybe 1/4", 1/2"?
     
  3. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Probably a C clip/snap ring on the end of the axle.
     
  4. BobH

    BobH Member

    The drum is free. It moves an inch or 2 then contacts the hub.
     
  5. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Just to make sure we are all on the same page...do you mean the drum is hitting the backside of the wheel hub or the locking hub? Is the brake drum behind (inside) the wheel hub or outside of the wheel hub? I am not sure when some of the changes occurred, but I think the early jeeps you have to remove the wheel bearing and wheel hub before you can get to the brake drum off...Depending on whether you have locking hubs, you may have to remove the locking hub first, then the wheel bearing and hub, then you can get the brake drum off.... I am currently staring at the brakes on the wagon wondering if I want to go through that hassle right now or not...
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2019
  6. BobH

    BobH Member

    This should help 1762C5D1-3177-4DC5-B74F-AFE9F8CBFED7.jpeg 3958EFDE-1A7A-417D-A69E-C3EF46912E19.jpeg FFD24BE9-8727-41DA-A8A1-45C9D6A49EB2.jpeg
     
  7. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Looks like its an outboard drum - so it will come off without removing the wheel hub, and in theory it seems it should slid over the locking hub (or maybe its a drive flange). Removing the locking hub/drive flange, should allow it to come off easily, but guessing it should slide over all of that, and its just getting bound up a bit. Clean and lubricate (wd40) the outside of that locking hub, and maybe bit of sand paper on the inside of the drum hole (in possible) and you may get it to slide off. Could also try heating the drum just a little to see if you can get it to expand just a bit. Can't go wrong removing the locking hub though, and once everything is all cleaned up, including the inside of the drum opening, it will probably go back together easily.
     
  8. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I've never tried removing a drum over the hub, I figured you were removing the whole assembly.
     
  9. BobH

    BobH Member

    FinoCJ, thanks. I was thinking the same thing but wanted to make sure. The tolerance between the drum and the hub is really tight, so it could paint.
     
  10. FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    I am not 100% sure, but guessing that a 1960 jeep would be a D25 and the oem set-up would have the 9" drum inboard of the wheel hub, and they come off as an assembly after removing the wheel bearing. After you get it apart, you may want to identify what you exactly have there before ordering new parts as it seems that its has had some modification at some point.
     
  11. BobH

    BobH Member

    Glenn, at this point I am hoping to get it just road worthy so I can get it registered. Absolutely intend to check the hubs down the road.
     
  12. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Does DMV want to see it because it came from out of state?
     
  13. BobH

    BobH Member

    Yes, they need to do a VIN check. Might get interesting when they find out it has a serial number and not a VIN. I’m hoping that when I apply for an antique tag they will understand. We’ll see.
     
  14. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    If it has the proper tag on the firewall you should be good to go. The digits on the left are the model number and on the right is the serial number, but I'm sure you already know that. You really shouldn't have a problem at all. Someone there should know about older vehicles.
     
  15. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I've got 5 registered as antiques so it really shouldn't be a big deal.
     
  16. mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Glenn, he was talking about the CJ being registered as an antique, not you.....we all know you are registered as 'an antique' five time over. :D:beer:
     
    Glenn likes this.
  17. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    :rofl::rofl: :beer: Lest we forget you guys aren't that far behind me. :D
     
    Cowboyjeeper and dozerjim like this.
  18. BobH

    BobH Member

    Glenn, Some of them, I’m sure, are ahead of you.
     
    Glenn likes this.
  19. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Definitely! :):beer:
     
  20. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I am registered as an antique, as a bunch of us are with the Medicare people. :)
     
    Twin2 likes this.