Oil Change On ‘63

Ray, you understand that Jeeps of this era leak oil, generally? There are things you can do to make them leak less, but trying for 100% may be futile. Lots of discussion in old posts about this.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=site:garagejournal.com+best+inexpensive+torque+wrench

I don't think a quality digital is in your price range. You could get a clicker, or beam type. I have both, and did not spend a lot on any of them.

 

Ok, thanks. Yes I know that these jeeps tend to “mark” their territory, ha. I’m not necessarily looking for 100% non leakage, but if there’s some product, tip or “trick” that’s easy and would help, then I’d like to know about it. For example, I’ve read about using a diluted vinegar in the radiator to help clean it out. I’m pretty sure the PO probably just used tap water and not distilled, so there might’ve some buildup that a mild acidic solution could help with. Like I said, I tend to overthink sometimes, ha. I think a “beam type” torque wrench fits right in and is period correct, ha. My “clicker” type leaves a lot to be desired, but is was a “cheapy”. As always, thanks for all the help and thanks for putting up with me... I’m sure all my questions have been answered before, and believe me, I do “searches” before asking.

 

I believe it’s original and probably never rodded out.

 

I had trouble finding the old adage about vehicles leaking oil...

Some were designed to "leak" although that's not an accurate description. Leak implies
undesirable penetration of of an oil barrier; leaking seals/leaking gaskets but prior to
modern PCV valves, most engines vented their blow-by to the atmosphere.

MAAAN, I bet roads then were ten times dirtier than they are now.

Article where I found the adage: Why Harelys leak

 

Before the PCV system, the "road draft tube" vented the crankcase by using the draft from the moving car to pull the crankcase vapors from the tube (Bernoulli effect). Air was drawn in to the crankcase through an inlet filter, similar to the crankcase inlet and filter of today's PCV systems.

Yeah, you can imagine how much vaporized oil ended up on the roads. I bet they were really slick when it first rained.

 

Ok guys, got under the hood (foreign landscape for me, ha), took the radiator cap off for a looksee, green coolant looks fresh and brand new, coolant filled up to about 1” from the inside top of the radiator, surface rusty slime(?) on inside walls of radiator above the coolant level, can easily scrape the rusty slime off and inner wall is smooth underneath the thin layer of rusty slime, radiator appears original and outside looks like “brass”, located the drain towards driver’s side on rear bottom of radiator and angled toward the engine, so it’s not on the bottom and not on the back, drain located almost directly behind the bell crank bracket(?). Radiator looks like it’s in GREAT condition but could benefit from a good soak in a cleaner and a back flush. Saw the tsm refer to a “flushing gun” utilizing both water and air. Anyway, what I actually crawled under the jeep for was just to located the oil pan drain plug, ha. Got my oil and filter now. I was surprised at the size of the drain plug’s head ... will need to get a big enough socket for that. And I think I can see the associated copper washer ... is that washer a “specific” item for that use ... where to get a replacement? Just think, you guys will be able to say, “I knew Ray Hogan back when he didn’t know the difference between the windshield wiper arm and the pitman arm on his ‘63 jeep”, ha! Take care from the “ignorant old mechanic”!

 

Ok, I’ll do that, but also get a replacement. Speaking of “replacement” parts, it seems that NOS parts are getting fewer and farther between. What should an owner of an old Willys be getting, assuming it can still be got. Or, how about this, if you could have the choice of just a few of any NOS parts, what would you get? Might make for an interesting new thread, ha. The more I become familiar with my ‘63, the more I recognize how amazing it is from an originality and condition standpoint.

 

Hey hey, look what just came in today’s mail, ha!

 

Excellent. The original copies have a lot better image quality, typically. There's always some loss in scanning and reprinting.

 

Yes, really nice. I have a “downloaded” copy, but the images leave a lot to be desired compared to this original hard copy. On another subject, anything to be careful of when power washing the under carriage? My plan was to move off the concrete, elevate the front of the jeep some, pretreat with a degreaser for a bit, not allow the degreaser to dry, then power wash without any more than necessary, then “blow dry” with a leaf blower like I’ve done with my motorcycles.

 

Rotella 10-30 in the winter and 15-40 in the 100+ summer. My cam manufacturer recommends Rotella and so does my machine shop so that's what I do. Rotella doesn't cost much which helps also. I add one additional cap of Lucas ZDDP with each oil change. I have no data to support any of this other than my machine shop claims the worn lobes on the cam I replaced were probably from running no zink so I just do it and don't worry about it.

This is the oil voodoo dance I do.