Replace V6 Timing Chain? Project Creep!!

You may have seen my thread about changing the water pump. I had this broken/stuck bolt and then the timing chain cover would not come off.

So we’re Creeping to the Timing Chain. It looks good. (I guess) There is a bit of slack. See how I move the chain with my finger in the photos below.

How hard to change the chain? Is this chain going to leave me stuck on side of the road? How necessary is it?

 

It will cause rough idling, wandering timing. Then noise under the cover. Then jump a tooth or three, perhaps resulting in piston-valve collosion.

 

That looks way too loose to me. Usually you replace it as a set, including the chain and the gears. The original camshaft gear had nylon teeth, so it's been replaced at least once. RockAuto shows a Cloyes, Melling or Sealed Power timing set for about $20 - all good brands. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

Been a long time, but I recall it's easy. Turn the engine until the index dots line up, loosen the cam gear and remove the chain and cam gear, replace the crank gear, replace the cam gear and chain together. Make sure the dots still line up.

 

I agree, worn out. I would change it.

 

Everything is off the front of the engine, I can’t see any further creep from here so WTH I’ll just do it.

What’s the deal with the crankshaft seal? Does that get replaced?

 

How about my distributor? I have photo of how it was clocked on but when I move the crank around it’s going to be different. Is there something I need to do to be sure I get it back together correct.

 

I am pretty sure you don't want to hear this, but if your timing chain is worn out this bad and its not original, chances are good your cam lobes are getting round too. Might have some faulty lifters too. It seems that all the engines I have taken apart had those problems. The one I "rebuilt" had round lobes and crushed lifters. The creep keeps creeping!

Anyway, get a puller for the crank sprocket. Line up he 2 dots and yank it all off. Be careful to not drop the fuel pump eccentric, they are hard to get. The new kit comes with tensioners too. The seal can be replaced if you want if its leaking... I seem to recall one is rope? Could be wrong.. Enjoy! happy to see you got the apart.

 

You're gonna have to retime it. #1 to TDC and point the rotor to #1 plug wire. Go around the distributor in the correct order. Use th shop manual I posted somewhere.

 

Lifters and cams and lobes oh my!
My workbench is covered with parts already. I’m completely unprepared to go any further. I wanna paint and drive this thing one year.

 

here is the engine manual
1966 Buick Chassis Manual, All Series, Engine Mechanical, Engine Fuel, Engine Electrical

 

You'll need the timing cover seal and gasket set regardless. There are sets with a rope seal or a rubber seal - I would use the latter if I could. Felpro is good.

 

Here’s a picture of mine after I replaced the gears and chain. You can see the two dots lined up. For me the hard part was getting the timing cover off. You can see from this picture how much less slack is in the chain compared to yours. I was quite easy to slide off and replace the gears and chain and tensioners.

 

Tensioners are optional.

http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/inde...th-a-happy-ending.115928/page-20#post-1224601

 

Update....



Hardly any slack and connect the dots!

 

Maybe an issue. The PO though parts 16 and 17 were optional. Not present when disassembled.
Minor or big problem?

 

The tensioners are not used with the double roller chain. The tensioners are available at low cost and I retained them with my stock chain and gears.why wouldn't you use them. I would check with T/A Perf for the spring and button on the end of cam.

 

Are you saying I’m missing tensioners also? I thought I had that correct.
T/A Pref ? Who ? What?

 

The cam thrust button and spring that your are missing can be bought from T/A performance or classicbuicks.com. Your engine may never have had one, several of the guys on here have pulled their engines apart only to find they were not on there originally, but most seem to have them. You do not appear to have a double roller style chain and sprocket set so yes you keep the chain tensioners as you have already installed.

This is why it should look like installed.