Replacing Rear Seal Ugh

Well I bit the bullet and decided to spend the weekend changing this leaky oil seal I got as far as the rear bearing cap and I can't get it out any suggestions

 

Okay I used two 18in 3/8 Steel Rod pieces stuck them in the bolt holes wiggled it back and forth she popped off I screwed a three inch screw into one side of the seal only screwed it in a little bit though pulled on it with a pair of pliers and rotated to cam and I practically fell right out more to follow

 

That rope seal is a PITA. It creates a lot of friction and will eventually seal up.... someday... they say...

 

I went with neoprene this time

 

yeah it took a couple thousand miles for the boys...

 

Does the neoprene setup drop in the same groove as the rope seal?

 

Yes direct replacement

 

Was it difficult to install?

 

Actually no. I thought it would be

 

The neoprene replacement seal is difficult, if not impossible, to get set in the block. The only way I have been able to install is by loosening all the main bearing saddles and allowing the crank to drop slightly. Of couse, the front can't drop because it is through the timing cover, so the crank endes up a little skewed. It also helps to completely remove #3 cap with the thrust bearing.
This whole endeavor is a less than desirable situation, but it can be done. Remember to also offset the parting line of the seal with the bearing cap. I usually use the neoprene seal as the engine is being built on a stand as the crankshaft is installed.
The rope seals can be pulled around the rear main groove much more easily, but they have a lot of drag and take a while to bed in to actually seal.
-Donny

 

I oiled it up good . Was right but pushing in while turning crank did the trick. And yes I offset the ends

 

Very lightly push with a pair of pliers while someone turns the crank mine went right in

 

Well you should offset the ends about 3/8" anyway. Squirt some oil into the other end. I had to push mine with pliers, just don't squeeze to hard and grab the seal 1/4" from the block, just enough to push a little at a time

 

besides removing the rear bearing cap did you have to loosen the rest of the crank bearing bolts? the Kaiser willys parts site says yes, but none of the you tube videos (other engines) show having to do that.

 

what are the 2 dowel pins that come with the seal kit (2 halves) used for?

 

Goes up in these two holes
Someone else will know the correct terminology but those are the dowels that should hang down below the block a bit and be sandwiched up by the oil pan once it’s tightened up

 

I didn’t have to, just the rear. I was honestly nervous about this but mine slid right into place with an extra set of hands turning the crank by hand to help pull the new neoprene seal around while I slid it in.

This is the seal I used:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/112320472680

 

The seal from Midwest Military is the one to use. He says don't clock the ends. Let them stick up the same on both ends. Don't cut the dowels. One set I got had dowels that were too big
There is so much on this on the forums. Read this.

Engine Overhaul,Rear Main Seal and Crankshaft