Brake Light Switch

I do have a 3rd brake light set up but it's LED so it shouldn't draw much.

 

After changing switches on several Jeeps and having failures I determined there were issues with the plug. I found a replacement plug for one which solved the issue. On another I ended up cleaning and sanding the contact surfaces on switch and plug and cured that one with no new parts. Maybe I was lucky... Don't overlook making good electrical contact.

 

x2

 

Had the same brake light problems forever. Cleaned the heck out of the contacts on both switches and they have been good for over a year now. Just be careful you don’t bend the contacts so they are loose.

 

I've also had trouble with getting good electrical contact. Painless has a switch with screw on contacts that I'd like to try.

 

Not sure if you figured out your issue, but my pressure switch has 2 pointed knobs on the end, not the ones you show in your post. I can take a pic if needed...

 

Pics might be a good idea.

I noticed my reverse light switch is nearly identical to the switch in post #1. What kind of wire connector/terminal works with these button terminals on the switches?

I want to eventually hook up some proper reverse lights ...haven't looked at my brake light switch(es) yet...

 

The ones I found were PM bubble packs at O'Reilly or Auto Shack. They are flat.

On the NAPA website it is near the bottom of this page. It also shows the stoplight switch.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=Brake+light+switch&referer=herofitmentForm-newveh


I'm sure there are better prices than shown on the NAPA part.

 

This is the plug that comes with the Painless switch. I didn't use it because the stock plug has a little diode or something between the two connectors.

 

Doug, I see your new signature.

 

That’s neat but it looks kinda modern and bulky. Are there individual crimp on style terminals available?
It doesn’t look like I have a lot of room to play with.

 

I have had this problem off and on with my 55
It seems that keeping the connection between the switch and wire clean is important as others have mentioned. I’ve though about that low pressure switch from Ron Francis and may try that if they act up again

 

It's very similar in appearance to the stock 1970 connector.

 

i used a pair of packard weather-pak female spade connectors. they work fine. the original connector looked very similar to colojeep's photo, admittedly mine is an intermediate.

 

Wouldn't happen to have a type designation would you?
Your average generic female spade connector will probably work though; the kind you find in your FLAPS.

I imagine the actual terminals would look something like this, then:
It's got a spring in the center.



Amazon.com: Delphi 12033997 Metri-Pack Female Loose Terminal 630 Series 12-10 Ga-50Pack: Automotive

 

i don't have the specs any more; i used them years ago when installing a painless harness in my cj. i purchased the packards from mark at m.a.d. electrical.

the end lug, as shown in your photo, crimps on the insulation. the inner lugs crimp to bare wire. makes a stable connection.

 

Only my RH brake light and turn signal work, could this switch be the problem? I get nothing on the left.

 

Check your light housing ground on the left.

 

I just remembered, I had a break light problem about a year ago, left break light didn't work. After checking everything out I found the problem, it was at the turn signal where the break light plugs into the turn signal switch. The factory plug had lost contact, cleaned the plug and everything good. Your break light switch may not be the problem, the wires from the break lights goes to the Spartan turn signal switch first, then to the break light switch, so that they can be turn signals when the switch is turned on it goes to the flasher then to the rear light as a turn signal. Good Luck. Hope this makes sense. That's Brake Light, had a brain fart.

 

Get you a test light and go to work...