4.3l V6 And Th350 In A 3a?

Anyone had any success or suggestions on this swap, I know it may be a little long. Looks like the original family doesn't want this back after all. Bought it from their grandfather for $3500, put about a $1000 in parts to fix all the issues (springs, shocks, tires, distributor rebuild, speedometer, hubs, rebuilt ross box, tie rod ends, blah, blah ... Offered it to them for $4000 for sentimental reasons. Since I may be keeping it looking into a repower from the L134. The drive train is stock, t90, d18, OD, 5.38's.

 

Friend of mine has a Chevy 350, TH350, D18 w/OD in his 2A. Rear driveshaft is short, but it's been on the road for probably 30+ years without a problem.

With the v-6, you could even cheat it forward a little more than he could have.

 

Thanks for letting me know it's possible. No problem with cutting the grill to move it all forward. Will be trying to keep it stock height. Reason for this conversion is I have access to an inexpensive 4.6L from a friend I know the history on. Always wanted an automatic in a Jeep. Would make a great deer hunting rig.

 

I just texted my buddy, he said he'll get some pics later this week. I'll post them up when I get them. He confirmed the rear driveshaft is short.

One thing though... his front driveshaft is 2-pc to clear the trans pan. Not sure if it's mandatory; the pictures will tell.

 

Here're the pics. Front driveshaft back to front, then the rear shaft. Rear shaft is 11.5" from center to center of joints.

 

next build right there.

 

Interesting 2-piece front driveshaft. I'll file that idea away for some future build!
-Donny

 

Saw that in some guys build in a 2 or 3a. I believe he is in Massachusetts and the jeep is grey? Real nice.

 

One of my favorites.
ECJ5

 

With a v6 you can run any trans you want. I have been running 400 turbos behind Buick v6's for over 30 years. You can actually get a 13" driveline in a flatfender with a 225, 400, 20 combo.

 

It's doable, the only real problem is the front driveshaft. Some guys have done it with a dana 18, By raising the whole drivetrain, essentially putting enough slant on the front DS to just clear the pan. I did not want it raised, as it causes other issues. I tried a dana 300 and with a clocking ring, and tried it in every possible position, and it just wont clear. I to ended up using a 2pc front shaft. It works fine. The whole combo is very driveable.

1948 cj2a

 

Thanks for letting me know it's do-able. I'm thinking 4.3l V6 with TH350, Dana 20 and centered 44.

 

Just a heads up... With such a short drive shaft, the Dana 20 might be an issue with driveshaft angles.

 

Why does it matter if the driveshaft is short? Does it become an issue offroading because of lack of travel on the driveshaft?

 

A short driveshaft is fine as long as the axle does not move up and down much, and the angle of the driveshaft is comparatively low. The shorter the driveshaft, the larger the angle for a given offset between the ends.

 

no issues with the short DS here, CV joint, axle inline with the shaft. 0 vibration at cruising speed, and so far no issues off road. there is not a lot of flex in these vehicles as they are, and it should only possibly be an issue when both rear wheels are at full drop,

 

Is the Dana 20 longer than the 18?

 

Not by much, depending on the yoke, but the output is taller. With a short shaft, a small increase in shaft height will net a large increase in shaft angle.

 

The output of a 20 is about 4 inches higher then an 18.

 

I'll have to reconsider that. Will try to maintain as close to stock height as possible.