Power Lock Center Pins And FF Conversion

I wouldn't think that a circlip groove is the best thing to have on an axle shaft, depending on its location. If its at the very end of a splined end with no tortional stress, then OK (like a C-clip on a Chevy axle). Otherwise, this sounds like a shear point. I could see a circlip groove cut to keep the axle shaft from walking out of an outer drive flange, and this would be a natural fracture point. I would much rather have a spacer block to control shaft location at the diff end, and have a thread-on cap on a drive flange to keep an axle from walking out that end.
-Donny

 

When I get it back to my shop I will post pictures and all will make sense.

The inner splines are longer than the outer splines.

 

I think Glenn is asking about the outer splines at wheel end.

 

Not the first time and you hear this more and more.

 

My rear diff is back together. I had to rob parts out of my craigslist axle's powerloc to replace the spider gears in the powerloc that I was using.
We left the center pins out just like before.
Here is what the snap ring looks like on the outer axle end. The snap ring limits the amount of axle float in and out.
In the next pic, you can see the shim that we have added to take up the additional slack. I replaced the damaged short side axle with the 1/8" longer one robbed from my craigslist axle. It has been shimmed so that there is a little more than a 1/16" of float in and out instead of the 5/16" float that I had before; which is what damaged my axle and powerloc spider gears.
In the last pic, I still have plenty of drive flange spline engagement.

On the long side axle we used the snap ring by itself to control the axle float in and out.
Everything should be good to run now for quite a while. If I ever break an axle, of powerloc again, I will most likely upgrade to 30 spline side gears and order custom, proper length axles from dutchman, as I have used up all my spare parts.

 

Dang ! That shaft seems a little short to me.
It apparently does not fully enter the drive flange splines.
Could those hubs possibly be wider than standard ?
They look like they could be aftermarket hubs...

I have a pair of D-44 Powr Lok cross shafts and pinion mate gears if that's what you need.
For Sale - D 44 Powr Lok Stuff

 

I don't know. I purchased the entire kit from Herm.

Its actually allot more engagement than it looks like. I am getting about the same amount as what you get with a locking hub, at least an inch. The picture is deceiving.
The floating 9" fords that we run in circle track cars only get about that much as well. They are 30 spline rather than 27 spline but I'm not putting 600hp to them with a sitcky tire either.

 

If you remove the shim, you risk the axle walking out and having the same problem over again. The shim ensuring that the axle stays engaged with the two sets of splines in the powerloc.

 

Here are a couple more pictures for your guys peace of mind. The pictures are very deceiving. The measurements show all. The outer end of the drive flange is tapered. I measured from where the full splines start. I am basically catching all but about 1/8" of the drive flange.And remember that these pics are taken with the axle pushed all the way in. I have 1/16" of float. so it can come out and catch a little more. But no less.

 

Something still hokey about the axle or flange or ?
The axle should be out at the end of the drive flange.
I know you say the picture makes it look worse than it is.
To me from here, it still looks worse.

 

Yes I see.
It's a kit meaning custom spindle plus aftermarket hubs and aftermarket drive flanges. Right ?

There are several places where differences in lengths can occur from standard parts.

First thing is that a slightly modified D25 or D27 wheel spindle is bolted to the outer flange of the tapered Dana 44 housing.
By modified I mean that the standard spindle index bore must be reduced so it can enter in where the 25821 wheel bearing cone normally goes.
Furthermore the modified spindle requires no inner bronze bushing as does the standard front spindle.
So I measured a standard front spindle for OAL.
A correct spindle (less bronze bushing) should measure 4-3/4" OAL when measured from inside the tube.
If not that could be a part of the discrepancy.

Next length concern is the hub itself and that should measure right at 4" OAL.

Then we have the drive flange.
I forgot to measure the standard OAL but the splined area should measure 1-1/4" OAL.
I'll try remember to measure the OAL of the drive flange as that could also vary.

If all those parts measure correct concerning their lengths then the axle shaft OAL is the problem.
You would do us all a favor if you can measure those 3 parts for comparison.

 

I think I have 3 different sets of full float axles at home. I am going to do some measuring.

 

Yes, I purchased Herm's package #6 All new components, Less bearings and seals as I have a bearing and seal provider.
I will get those measurements.
I was looking at it last night after assembling my transfer case with the AA shaft kit. It looks like I could have the wheel hub faces milled off about 1/4" inch. That would allow for full spline engagement on the drive flange and negate the need for the shim.