Ross Steering Box Rebuild

Over the last two days I rebuilt the Ross box from my 3B. Most of the parts are in good shape. The exception was the sector shaft bushings.

I followed Moses Ludell's rebuild procedure except for one thing. He decribes using a brake hone to fit the bushings after pressing them in. I prefer to use a reamer long enough to cut both bushings at the same time. That way the bores are on the same centerline and can be fitted accurately for the proper oil clearance.

Sorry, didn't take many pictures on this one.

Pulling the steering wheel - FYI that's a Harbor Freight large bearing separator and 2-jaw puller with the puller's lead screw inserted in an inverted 3/8 drive 7/8" socket to protect the end of the worm tube. I left the wheel nut on the tube but backed it up until the tube was just shy of flush.



And the assembled gear.



The worm gear is an original Ross piece that has typical wear such that the mesh with the sector pins is tighter off-center rather than on-center as designed. Because of this I installed one of the Tight-Steer devices. We'll see how it does. I wanted to avoid installing an aftermarket worm.

On a side note, I wasn't happy with the quality of the new bushings I received. I was talking to one of the guys at my local NAPA yesterday. He let me rummage through a box of random bushings they had sitting on the back shelf. I found a set of Clevite brand bushings. Me - very happy!

 

Nice! Did that steering wheel come off OK - no damage to the back side?

 

Yes. No damage. I've only had one break this way and it had been out in the weather for years.

They come off with a bang (another reason to leave the nut on), but once they move a little they usually come the rest of the way by hand.

 

Yes and yes.

 

BTW, it had the right oil in it when I took it apart. I never had to add any.