Norcal69's Common Sense Build.

like the idea, make a quick change fast. But you have to make sure the male end that is not use is clean when you disconnect

 

Thanks for the compliments guys.

This is something along the lines of what I am thinking. I'm just not sure yet on the exact method of execution.

 

You have put the sway bar at a place that will not be easy to access would be tricky to work it out

 

All you need is one of the magic buttons they have in the newer Rubicons. My Daughter's rig has one. You just push the button on the dash and it magically disconnects the sway bar. A little light even comes on so you know it worked.

 

I looked into those when I was planning my swaybar, and I couldn't help but imagine the parts wearing over time and hearing a clunk or bang every time the torsion switched sides. It might be unwarranted, but I didn't want to go through the expense or trouble to be disappointed later. I'm a little neurotic when it comes to noises.

 

I added grease fittings to all of the sway bar bushings. Huge difference in stiffness, much smoother sway bar action. There are several sway bar disconnect ideas rolling around in my head. Realistically I might only disconnect the sway bar a couple times a year. For the up coming rubicon trip I will probably just take the sway bar out all together. Couple zips with the battery impact and it's gone..........
You can also see the bump stop added to the U bolt flip bracket. With the low stance, 22.5" to the rocker, space is tight.......

 

Dont forget to put back the plate for the transmission....wont be good to have a rock playing in there

 

Good eye, I'm gonna have to remember where I stashed that......

 

I found it for you..... I also put the winch back on. One step closer to the trip!

 

Look in good shape thing going all together...

I have to service down my winch...i suspect worn brushes...also free spool doesnt free spool since 4 years now ahah

 

Thanks to jeep peep69, I have some stockish looking tailgate chains. I used abrasion sleeve from Mc Master Carr.

 

For several years I have been running a lousy Mr Gasket 2bbl carb to 4bbl intake adapter with my MC2100. It was really hard to get to seal, and the thick carb insulator gasket that I had been using was beginning to deteriorate. I also felt that I was getting some heat soak on hot summer days. I ordered a new phenolic adapter from summit. The adapter is designed to be used with the Holley 4412 so I had to remove some material to clear the power valve and throttle of the MC2100.

The phenolic material is easily removed with a die grinder and a burr.




Throttle linkage relief






While I had the carb off I pulled it apart to see what Jet size was in it. Turns out to be a #49. I'm going to order a set of #48 and #47 to throw in the tool box.
I sprayed carb cleaner around the base and was pleased to find a leak free seal.

 

Love that carb. My dump truck has one.

 

Here’s a sway bar disconnect I’ve been running for years. The bar is cut in half and a male and female collar is welded onto each end. A pin through the collar holds things together. It’s gotten a little sloppy with wear over the years but still seems to work.

 

Am I seeing that you cut the swaybar basically in half and welded the disconnect into the middle of it?

Edit.... I'm just reading this now and that's what you did.

 

Aint a bad idea....

I started working on something similar but using an old drive shaft slip yoke. Cut the male spline part in two, drill a hole in them, use a tap to make some thread, use only the thread of the bolt (just to make sure both part stay aligned) and i use the female part of the drive shaft to slip over the two part of the cut spline. i was planning to use a 2" air cylinder to move the female spline part with a selenoid but i never ended up the project.

 

My plan was to use the pnueumatic front-axle disconnect (from the Rodeo I parted out), but I had reservations about cutting/welding the spring-steel of the sway bar. I guess that's a non-issue?

 

I know its generally frowned upon, but Ive welded coil springs with success. Long story, but I was making some "special springs" for a circle track car. I accidentally cut one coil too many off. After grinding a relief off of each piece, I pre heated and welded them back together. I threw them under a welding blanket to slow the cooling.
That was 2004 and that car has never had an issue.

 

Several pages back in this thread I was getting a little burned out with the build. I was making so many mods at once that it had essentially become a brand new build. For me things have to be right, square, adjusted and functioning properly!
Here is the culmination of last winters late nights and $$$$. I have been dreaming about this camping trip since before buying the jeep in 2014!
That is snow along the lake shore in the background! The road to get into this spot is tight, rough and hard to walk let alone drive. The jeep handled it easily in 4 low; never even touched the air lockers!