Custom driveshafts

I was wondering what everybody does for custom driveshafts? I know Tom Woods driveshafts are good, but I hear they are pricey. I've seen some mud trucks that have box tubing or tractor PTO driveshafts as their driveshafts; bad idea?

 

I just had both driveshafts made at local driveshaft shop . very happy with work . found invoice . cost for shorting one(front) and lengthen the other(rear) with new u joints . and balancing cost $150 . didn't need new slip joints . they were replace a few years earlier with the other transmission swap (auto)

 

I have never heard a bad thing about tom woods driveshafts. I think they start just under $200 each. I just looked at 4 wheel drive hardware's catalog and the cheapest shaft is $350. Imo $200 for a custom driveshaft made to your specs sounds like a good deal to me.

 

Ok, the woods ones sound good. Someone was telling me it would be about a grand for both of them. I found that hard to believe.

 

I like Tom Woods okay.

I've also had great value from a nearby driveshaft shop. They totally rebuilt my ruined shaft for under $200... after Ford quoted me $1500

For a basic shaft why not go local?

 

I want a long slip joint. I got a driveshaft lengthened 3" for my '55 chevy project and that cost $370 at a local shop.

 

Ask for a shop reference on NEOW http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=106432&hl=+drive++shaft++shop or maybe on Baystate Jeepers - http://www.baystatejeepers.com/forum/index.php

I would not consider Tom Woods unless I wanted something exotic. Nothing against Tom Woods, but changing a driveshaft length is not rocket science. I'd expect a local shop to be well under $100 labor, plus parts.

 

I have always used a local shop (Powertrain Plus) and have never had one malfunction in anyway. The parts are all Spicer and near as I can tell, perfectly balanced-no vibration. Nothing against Tom Woods, but unless you are racing or have some extreme angles, they are likely overkill.

 

Last driveshaft I purchased from CJ Tatton off E-Bay. I think it was $150 shipped to my door. All NEW Spicer parts including premium u-joints, long slip joint (9" iirc) and balanced. Runs just fine in the back of my '59-5.
I called and talked to him before ordering. Nice guy. After purchase he had me reference the E-Bay purchase to the call/info. Fit perfect when I received it and plenty beefy.

Not all Tom Woods stuff is pricey but not all is cheap either. They do stand behind their product and build nice stuff.

 

I like overkill. :twisted:

I'll try my local shop. Can't be too expensive if I supply ends then. The tubing must be less than a 4' total.

 

Nick,
I was looking at his shafts for my build. Glad you had a good experience and thanks for the info. I will give him a call.

 

Just to throw another alternative out there, I have been very pleased with the rear drive shaft I ordered from these guys.

http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/

Very friendly, even called me back to verify measurements.

 

Nate, FWIW, You can shorten the drive shafts yourself for the Jalopy. Since you're running a T18 a stock rear shaft can be shortened and on the front you can shorten a 72-75 CJ5 d30 shaft. I ran this same setup on my 2A years ago. I've shortened dozens of shafts over the years, never had a problem, and this included 455 Trans Am, 460 F350 4x4, not just low HP stuff.

 

I've done that in the past, but they always had a wobble to them.

 

I always try to shorten on the end that just has the bearing yoke, being off a small amount here won't be noticeable. Shortening the spline end is a little more critical.

 

another vote for CJtattoon. Just made me a long front with double cardon, all spicer, fast, $300 Shipped. I might caution that you may want to give him a collapsed and extended measurements or they will just center the slip yoke travel. Shortening - always worked for me. Do the fixed end as suggested, tack in 3 spots on flat bench, mount in vehicle, check run out. Adjust run out by cutting one or two tacks, maybe heat tack a bit to allow stretch, tap with hammer for zero run out, re tack and weld in place. Put ground clamp around shaft, hold gun and spin shaft.

 

junk yard. i got a longer short end for the front of my 2a off of a comanche pickup. cherokee is probrobly the same. splines and yoke fit no problem. just an inch or two longer than stock but keeps it from falling out.

 

JE Reel or Tom Woods would be my go to's for driveshafts if I needed one.

 

I've run a tom woods in the rear, and one from a local shop in the front. The Tom Woods CV turned out to be cheaper than the locally made one, even when I supplied the yokes and tube. Both high quality and well built, but the tom woods wins hands down as far as I'm concerned.

I can't see 2 fairly normal driveshafts being anywhere near $1k from them.