Rebuilt engine no compression

These time pretty much the same as a chevy. This isn't a distributor being 180 out issue, this is an actual valve timing event issue. I just need to get back to basics and verify alignment of timing sprockets, damper and TDC.

 

Well, I'm just going to pull engine back out and pull timing cover. I have been breaking rocker pedestals and now bent a couple of pushrod. I used the pushrod checker and adjusted it pretty close to zero lash. From what I can see, it isn't too far off.

 

If it were me I would bring number one to top dead center on the compression stroke, loosen the lifters and pressurize the cylinder see what happens. That would tell you if it were a valve problem or a ring problem. I am no expert, but I think you have to take things out of the problem to figure out what is working and what is not working. Good luck.

 

Bending your push-rods or breaking towers is due to the cam trying to open a valve against the top of the piston.

 

I'm concerned for your valves. You may have flexed the valve head, and eventually it'll fracture and drop the head of the valve.

 

Well, pulled engine and found that I screwed up as suspected and installed bottom sprocket on wrong key way, thus not having upper sprocket aligned correctly with the mark I thought I was on. Oops. Combination of working too much OT and rushing to get it running.

 

Well, I should have the timing correct now...I also had to take each lifter out and drain the oil out. I couldn't preload the lifters because they were hard as rock. If no valves were bent I should hopefully be able to start engine soon.

 

Ooh, fancy race-car tech ... painted valley. In the past, they'd use Glyptal for that -



more like an insulating varnish; meant for coils, transformers, etc. Said to make the oil drain back to the pan faster.

 

I always paint the lifter valleys and typically the rocker area of the heads. Basically fills in the pores and voids in the casting to lessen the amount of oil that stays around.

 

Old thread resurrected? How long is this build lol? I do not believe the OHV 304 is zero interference engine. Valves would not contact pistons unless your cam lift and piston dome decided to elope. Crushing valve springs, however-this is likely cause of bent push rods. I admit I did not read all pages re deck height, cam lift, compression. A stock 304 should never have piston strike valve. Ever. Unless the valve keeper failed and it dropped into cylinder at high speed. Even in event of high rev chain failure, I do not believe its possible.

Of course, I could be wrong. I was once before, when I mistakenly thought I was wrong. ;-)

 

[QUOTEresurrection15009]Old thread resurrected? How long is this build lol? I do not believe the OHV 304 is zero interference engine. Valves would not contact pistons unless your cam lift and piston dome decided to elope. Crushing valve springs, however-this is likely cause of bent push rods. I admit I did not read all pages re deck height, cam lift, compression. A stock 304 should never have piston strike valve. Ever. Unless the valve keeper failed and it dropped into cylinder at high speed. Even in event of high rev chain failure, I do not believe its possible.

Of course, I could be wrong. I was once before, when I mistakenly thought I was wrong. ;-)[/QUOTE]

Not a resurrected thread, just on going. I wasn't able to get the engine started so Jeep sat for over a year until I had time recently to look at it. This is a stock rebuild with a small 252 comp cam. I made a rookie mistake and lined up the wrong key way with the actual key way lower sprocket was on. I'll find out if valves got tweaked I suppose on start up this time around.

 

Got it fired up, wasn't getting oil pressure after a minute or two so. I think I either need to pack pump with vasaline again or pull distributor and run pump with a drill motor.

 

I would say either or both is a good idea. Good to hear it fired up tho.

 

Yeah, I'll try the lazy way first....and use drill motor. I figured it would have primed from the oil that was still in filter, but I guess not.

 

Yeah, I'd refill the oil filter again and drill-run the oil pump.

 

Also reduces emissivity, keeping intake cooler. theoretically, and subjective anecdotes...probably has some, perhaps measurable, significance