steering repair/upgrade

I'm trying to narrow down some steering shimmy issues and figure its a good idea to replace some old parts. Problem is that I'm not sure what I have.
65 CJ5 swapped to saginaw with what I was told was a postal setup. LH box. Original D27 axle. Draglink runs from pitman arm down to a hole on the pass tie rod end.
Is that a decent setup?
I have play in steering and I think I'm getting a wobble from the setup.
I have seen the draglink rotate the tie rod when turning the wheel. That can't be normal.
Any idea what the steering linkage might be from or any upgrade to this other than swapping and regearing a open D30?

 

Have you gone through the knuckles? I think I'd do that first.

 

Yes. King pin bearings can be a root cause. Plus anything obvious like a worn out tie rod ball joint, shocks. After it's all tight, verify toe-in, tire balance, etc.

 

Shackle mounts also.

 

Yeah, I'm going through the knuckles and all that. I'm just not sure about the steering linkage.

 

are you running a steering stabilizer

 

You might want to research the double hole passenger side knuckle. It eliminates the tie rod with the hole in it, and lets you run from the pitman arm directly to the knuckle. it's one of the best upgrades i did. you get more leverage, the next best thing to power steering.

 

Yes stabilizer.
I saw something about the 2 hole knuckle, but not enough. Where can I find one. I'd like to upgrade to that.

 

I purchased my two hole knuckle from R&P a few weeks ago.

 

R&P? Link?

 

They are listed in the vendors section


Sent from my iPhone

 

Not an expert on this - just speaking from general knowledge - The two-hole knuckle was used on Wagoneers and J-trucks before 1974. One should be easy to source. A two-hole knuckle from any closed knuckle Jeep axle will work - they are all the same, 27, 30, 44. Wagoneer 27s and 30s are throwaways for anything but a faithful restoration.

Lots of people use the tie rod end with the hole for the drag link successfully. I would think that the geometry would be the most important issue. The angle of the drag link to the special tie rod end would influence whether the end would twist or not. The multiple angles in the special tie rod connection can't help, however.

 

The Postal Jeep setup works just fine - I have one. But I will tell you this, unless someone shortened the rods it is not what came on the Postal because they are to long. The Postal is two wheel drive.

When I put this setup on my current Jeep I am going to use a two hole knuckle because it gives you better control over the rod lengths, angle and leverage, but the postal does work

 

Thanks guys.
Called R&P and ordered the 2hole knuckle, knuckle bearings, and a hd tie rod. This will help.
Speaking of postal, anyone have info on the postal saginaw box? Didnt search too much but all i saw was for the later bigger box. I should look at mine as there is some slop.

 

Yes, I have a postal Saginaw on mine. What do you want to know?

 

Is there a model number or parts breakdown? They must be repairable, right? Parts suppliers?
What years did they use them?

 

The numbers from mine are:
Cast on the side - LB-183F

Metal tag on cover - LB1 - 3463

They are made by Saginaw and can definitely be rebuilt. Mine is re-manufactured. Be careful to get a left hand drive one, as the norm is right hand drive. Mine is left hand so those numbers should be good.

Mine was originally installed on a 1965 DJ5. I got the steering column, steering gear, the steering linkage and the frame all at the same time - but you can get just the steering gear and get a Ford Saginaw mount and use that as your guide to mount it in your CJ. They sell them at Speedway