225 engine assembly

Comp Cams Cam Kit BV63 260H (cam, lifters, valve springs, umbrella seals, timing set, lube)
Sealed Power Valves V-1744 (exhaust) V-1745 (intake)
Sealed Power Pistons P1110P
Sealed Power Rings E-222K
Sealed Power Connecting Rod Bearings 8-2500RAA
Clevite Main Bearing Set MS960P
FelPro Lower Gasket Set CS 8142
FelPro Upper Gasket Set HS 8723 PT-7
ARP Head Bolt Set chbs-1216 (headbolts.com #)

 

fb You're the best!

 

Please excuse my ignorance, but do your pistons have this triangular-shaped notch in them and the round formation in the center? I'm guessing the round part may be from the casting?? What are those notches for?

 

Notch to front. I´m not sure what they look like. They arrive Friday.

 

The pistons that my shop ordered have an arrow that points to the front. Here is where I left off for the night after getting the oil pan on:



Here is a photo of the stake marks that need to be ground away in order to install a new rubber seal. Using a die grinder with a fine pointed bit, gently grind at the seal side of the mark until the outer perimeter of the old seal is visible. Flip over the cover and using a brass punch on the lip of the old seal, pound out the old seal. You may have to smooth the stake marks further in order to have a nice smooth surface for the new rubber seal. I thought I had a photo of the timing cover with the new seal in but apparently I don't

 

Pretty. Nice job.

 

Looks great Joe!! You're almost there!

 

Pistons arrived.

 

A little trial and error today. Pressing out the wrist pins in the old pistons. Started by cutting a 3.75" iron pipe down the middle to make a cradle for the piston.


Used old wrist breaker and a step bit to drill a clearance hole for the pin.


Using a deep socket 9/16" I pressed out the first one. In doing so it flattened the cradle a little and I cracked the old piston.



Not good so I welded a brace to keep the cradle from spreading. On one side I set a ledge for the connecting rod to sit on and the other a foot to keep it level.


More later.

 

To better explain my trial and error, I began with just the cut and drilled half pipe. The piston cracked but the wrist pin came out easily. The second was an utter failure. The pipe had flattened so the piston was sloppy. When I began pressing the pin the piston shattered. I stopped and inspected and quickly found the issue. I then squeezed the pipe back into shape and welded the braces. After doing this everything worked perfectly and wrist pin removal was easily accomplished even in the shattered piston.

 

are you going to weigh each piston/rod assy?

 

Yes.

 

Do you have enough confidence now in the fit of the cradle that you will use it to press the new pins into the new pistons without cracking any of them? I can understand why you would want to weigh those assembly parts, but what kind of tolerances are we talking about? How would you lighten up the ones that might be too heavy? And what kind of scale do you weigh them with? Just curious.

 

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Art...ating_assemblies_cranks_rods_and_pistons.aspx

 

Is there enough room on the piston around the wrist pin to support the piston on the flats instead of in the cradle? 2 pieces of 1" x 1/2" flat stock on end on either side of the pin?

Like this with the flat stock resting on the frame


Or this way with the flat stock on the press plates

 

I won't be using the cradle to install the pins. The pins are currently residing in the bottom of the deep freeze. During install the rods will be in the oven at around 350* F. Should go in very easy, maybe by hand. We'll see. This is my first pressed pin install. Only floating pins in my past.

I'll use our digital scales to weigh. They are fairly accurate. I use them to weigh beer ingredients. To adjust weight, I'll find the lightest one and sand disc the bosses on either side of the rod. Shooting for within a gram.

 

BTW If reusing rods, stamp them so they go back to the same location on the crank.

 

Back in the 70's and 80's when i was rebuilding motors at home, they always recomended a " rod alignment".
I always did it, never had a motor fail either, not saying the alignment was the issue.
Perhaps somebody can give you more info regarding the importance of this work for your rebuild.

 

Always heard it was for new or reconditioned rods. Using original rods that were good to begin with it was unecessary.