225 engine assembly

I know I'm a PITA, but can we back up a few steps? I'm just trying to understand the whole process, because I'll be doing the same thing and I've never done it before. So you disassembled everything at home and took the block, crank and heads to the machine shop, and they measured/determined whether it needed to be bored over or not? Did you disassemble the heads too? You said the machine shop assembled them--does that mean they were able to reuse all the old parts? What about your connecting rods--don't those have to be checked out too, or are you getting new ones? Why did you have the machine shop install the cam bearings--is that a tricky step? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

 

It depends on what you want to pay for and your level of comfort mechanically speaking. I disassembled everything and took in bare castings for them to machine. They require the valves (if they are new) for part of the measuring and machining process, specifically valve shaft length and guide wear. I reused the valve spring retainers and locks, thats all. Reassembly is a small charge so I let them do it. In regards to measuring, I did so myself, told them my numbers, and let them do the same for verification. You can let them do it all if you wish. You can have them check your connecting rods if you wish, I did not feel the need. Cam bearings require a tool I do not have and can be easily messed up. I let them deal with the risk.

 

Thanks! Looking forward to the next step!

 

I'm in the same boat.

I took the bare block, assembled heads, crank, and pistons/rods to the machine shop. The did all the measuring, boring, parts ordering, etc.. and I picked up an assembled short block and rebuilt heads. I'm doing the rest of the assembly. Keep in mind that you may want to contact your machine shop before hand and see exactly how far they want things torn down.

 

Come on guys...........putting these motors together is 1/2 the fun...........(LOL)jeep toss

 

I was a mechanic in a former life. I work in a hospital now and have for years. Working on Pete is the only time I get grease on my hands anymore. I love it. It's almost as fun as actually wheeling.

 

Block cleaned and painted today.

Chased threads.


Sprayed down with degreaser. I use Castrol Super Clean.


Scrub, scrub, scrub.


Rinse well.


Blow dry. Get into to all nooks and crannies.


Immediately spray internals down with WD-40.


Wet a rag with WD-40 and wipe out cylinders until it comes out clean. Turn rag frequently while doing this.


Using plastic bore brush and plenty of WD-40, clean lifter bores.



Dab up WD-40 puddles.


Tape off.


Don't forget mounting locations.


Ready for assembly.

 

This is great! Don't ever think you're taking too many photos! I love it...thanks for sharing this!

 

Thanks for all the pics! You make it look so easy.lol

 

You Know, I think people that do this (rebuild Jeeps) Do a better job than people that do it for a living.... I love seeing all the attention to detail....that the jeep lover give their jeeps! I know I am guilty of this myself.. Carry on !!!

 

Short day today. Had to work the night shift at the hospital last night. Got up around 2 and installed the crankshaft.

Prepped the rear main seal. Pinch and push into groove then use a hammer handle to press in tight.



Trim ends flush. I use razor blade and very sharp scissors.



Install upper main bearing halves. They are grooved and have a port that should match the oil port. Thrust bearing at number 2.


Coat with assembly lube. I use Lubriplate 105. Don't forget the thrust bearing surface.



Lubricate the rope seal. FSM suggests heavy motor oil. I use Lucas Oil Stabilizer (kinda like STP).


Lay in the crank and turn it back and forth a couple of times to settle it.


Install caps. The rear cap requires prep. Lube as top half. Lube neoprene seals with heavy oil. Paint sides of block and cap with Aircraft sealant. Hold neoprene seals flush with outside of cap and slide in to place.


Drive pins in the inner side of the neoprene seals. Leave them a 1/4" short.


With caps just finger tight, pry crank back and forth a few times to set the thrust bearing.


Torque everything down 80-110 lb-ft. I always shoot for the middle value, 95 lb-ft.


Cut the neoprene seals flush and peen the pins the rest of the way sharply so they are flush. Make sure it all rotates smoothly. Check thrust with dial indicator (I ran out of light, have to do it tomorrow).


Always bag when done for the day.

 

This is really helpful. The photos are great and the captions are brief, but clear. You have a good way of getting the info across. I do have a couple questions, though. First, what are those pins for--just to expand the neoprene? And second, you say to wiggle the crank back and forth to "set" the thrust bearing. You show a good picture of that #2 bearing and how its lips capture its seat. So, I assume that bearing can move fore and aft a bit. How much? And when you move the crank back and forth, do you leave it in the aft most position and then torque the cap down? Thanks Rocky! I, for one, really appreciate you taking the time to do this.

 

You got it right. The pin pushes the seal against the block. This also expands it against the sides of the groove to seal the path for oil to get out. As far as the thrust bearing goes, when installed it straddles its mounting location in both the block and cap. To set it, you install all caps finger tight then move the crank back an forth a few times. This just ensures the bearing isn't cocked on the saddles. Any movement is basically imperceptible. It doesn't matter where you leave it when torqued, the crank still has between .0004" and .0008" of movement front to back (crankshaft end play).

Short answer is no. All is standard, crank and bearings. Machine shop just polished the crank. If it was ground, new crank, new connecting rods, I would have checked clearance. In this case I don't feel the need. I guess I'm trusting Clevite. They've never failed me before.

 

I got my V6 on a stand and started tearing it down. Got the carb, starter motor, dist, valve covers, accessories, etc. off. I guess I should've loosened the bolt that goes into the front of the crankshaft before I removed the flywheel. I can't get it loose, even with the impact wrench and the compressor set at 120PSI. I'll have to block the crank from turning somehow and use a breaker bar...just wondering if you have any tips for doing this.

 

I just use a pry bar and the ring gear braced by the engine stand brackets.

 

On the rear main cap you state "Paint the sides of the block and cap with aircraft sealant" Exactly what product is this? Thanks

 

I think that's a great idea!!!!