Rebuilt & Improved Dauntless Rocker Arm Assemblies

The original rocker arm assemblies on my 225 V6 were about the only parts that didn't get either improved or replaced when the engine was rebuilt a few years ago. At the time, I didn't realize there was a source for rebuilt rockers, but here's a set I discovered recently and decided to purchase.

https://vintagejeeper.com/products-&-services/ols/products/dauntless-v6-rocker-arm-assembly-rebuilding-service

I had a long conversation today with Sal, a.k.a. Vintage Jeeper, about all the work that has been done to update and improve these rocker arm assemblies. It sure sounds like they will be a major upgrade from the originals - particularly ones like mine, which at this point have 80-90k miles on them, and are a more than a little noisy. I'll make another post once I have them installed.

[Update: I made a video to show the difference between the sound of the original rocker arm assemblies 'before' vs. that of the rebuilt sets after installation - see: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/153714/page-2#post-1752537 ]

Sal said he has a couple more of these rocker arm sets available at present, but as the listing indicates he also rebuilds take-offs.

Incidentally, though Sal doesn't do whole engine rebuilds, he does rebuild a number of other Jeep parts - including, but not limited to, transmissions & transfer cases, axles, PTOs, cylinder heads, carbs, and Ross steering boxes. He also does custom machining and other mechanical restorations.

He's located in eastern PA, and can be contacted through his website. I encouraged him to join ECJ5, and he said he definitely plans to.

 

fixed link Products & Services (vintagejeeper.com)

 

I went to Rocket Arms Unlimited. They sent a new rockers that have oil passages in the push rods. He used part from a Buick V-6, don’t know year

 

The Rover alloy V8 engines through the 90’s - early 2000’s (Discovery, Range Rover, Defender) use the latest version of these rockers. For V6’s, you need to locate the actual shorter shafts, or cut the longer V8 ones (and reinstall the plug), but the rockers, stands, spacers, etc all interchange. As mentioned above, you can use hollow pushrods that supply the rocker oil, a big improvement.
I have pulled at least 3 sets of these at the U-Pull yards, and they all had no perceptible wear, basically prefect condition.
I suspect these modern Rover parts are what “vintage Jeeper” is supplying.
EDIT: I stand corrected; It sounds like “ vintage jeeper” is chrome plating shafts, rebushing rockers, and other improvements.
-Donny

 

Maury thanks for the mention. We had a real nice conversation the other day. Some of you may already know me, Sal Walter on FB. I do a lot of work for the flat fender community and other vintage Jeeps (Carb rebuilds, machining, trans rebuild, vintage Off Road stuff etc.) It's been a while since I hit the forums. The rocker assemblies I supply, use the original parts. Donny is correct in his edit about the plating, rebushing, threaded pad, etc. I looked into the aftermarket Rover rocker arms but the quality just wasn't there. Out of 20 rockers 18 had loose cups and a whole list of other issues. On the rebuilt ones the 1.6:1 stock ratio is not affected during the rebuild process. I run a set of these on my fresh rebuilt Dauntless and have been very satisfied with the results. To recap , The shafts get hard chromed to about .003-.004 after light machining, the rockers are tumbled, and the ID inspected and machined for brass bushings and the oil hole drilled. The rocker is then threaded to accept a new hardened pad opposed to the pressed in originals. The post are tumbled and height checked to retain the factory spec etc springs washers and new cotter pins. I'll have these out to Maury next week , just waiting on a set of valve cover gaskets.

 

Thanks for the info, Sal!

 

Your welcome Bob. Im a rather small outfit , though much of my stuff is in the larger outfits. A little bit about me, been working on Jeeps and into the hobby for a looooong time. I was in technical sales for a flow control company , a professional mechanic and have a machining background. I literally quite my job of 10yrs to start a business centered around vintage jeeps, offering mechanical restorations(trans, TC, PTO, Axles etc), custom machining and vintage offroad parts and became a distributor for a bunch of outfits. It been a great journey but always trying to find a way to offer innovative solutions.

 

I have bought parts from Sal and have had him make me up sets of spring bushings for me. . Really appreciate talking over ideas and solutions along with a good dose of Jeeping BSing with him. He's a great person to work with and is very helpful guy.

 

Jim! I was wondering what your handle was. I love chatting with you about these old Jeeps. We've had some good hour-long conversations for sure.

 

Wow this is great information and it is so cool to see vendors doing well. I see some rockers in my future.

 

Thanks Tom!

 

Just a quick reply about the later rocker setup. When I disassembled my 1969 dauntless(date correct block) I found the stamped steel rocker,hollow pushrods that had been in service many years. The rebuilder had done this upgrade so I don't know about lifters,rocker stands or shafts,but I am guessing this is off the shelf 231 parts.The oiling is a plus and Rock Auto lists parts. If anyone has info maybe they can post it. My curreent 225 has the original rockers with new pads to valve stem from T/A Perf. and adj. pushrods. Either works great for me. Sourcing parts is another matter.

 

Is is correct that the original rocker arms on the 225 didn't have the oiling holes that were fed through the pushrods (which were solid)? - and the 231's had rocker arms with the oiling holes, and hollow pushrods feeding oil to them?

 

Sal’s also on Instagram
Hi Sal!

 

Yes, the 225s have a pressurized oil passage feeding up through the head into the rocker shaft. The shaft has small bleed holes that feed the rocker pivots.

231s has a bleed holes in the top of the lifters that feed oil up hollow pushrods where it sprays through holes in the rocker arms to oil the pivots.

You can put 231 heads on a 225 if you also swap the lifters and pushrods. You can't put 225 heads on a 231 because there are no pressurized oil passages to the heads unless you switch to 231 style rocker shafts and rockers (if that's possible).

 

Thanks for the clarification!

So if I install 231-style rocker arms with the oiling holes, like the setup Vintage Jeeper is selling, on a 225 - along with hollow pushrods and lifters with oil bleed holes - this would augment the 225’s original cylinder-head-to-rocker-shaft oiling arrangement?

 

It should work, but you've added a lot of extra oil bleeds. You want to make sure it doesn't drop your oil pressure.

 

On my setup they plugged the original oil feed from the block thru the head. To be clear it is a 225 with 231 rockers and hardware. I never had a oil pressure gauge so no worry there.. I think the only piece i'm not sure of is the rocker shaft stands. The rest of the parts seem to be available.

 

So how did the 225’s original rocker oiling system feed oil up through the rocker shaft stands? Was there a port in one or more of the stands the oil was fed through to get to the shaft? - or did it flow up to the shaft through the bolt holes in the stands?

Update: I did a search (which I should have done initially) that answered the above question.

The following images were originally posted by OzFin and Walt Couch in this 2020 thread: http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/141018/#post-1550513

 

Just went to Sal's site and am impressed with what is available.

I am about to rebuild a T-90 and was tickled to find he has hard plastic setup shafts for only $20, and just ordered one. The last one I rebuilt was 32 years ago and the wooden dowel I used then is long gone so for the price I thought this was a good tool upgrade. I will be checking there for parts once I know what I need.

Another service I saw offered, I think is well worth consideration, is the steering knuckle stud conversion, also at a very reasonable price. The stock spindle bolts are a weak point, and are often stripped. If you have ever had a spindle come loose you know about this.