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V6 rod bearings

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Patrick, Apr 20, 2011.

  1. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Done. Gonna have to drive all the way up town to get a flare nut wrench out of my box..:rofl:
     
  2. grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Sarcasm aside, talk about job creep. Summers coming. If it's just a rod bearing or two, just replace them and do the rebuild in the coming winter. You'll have the jeep for fun in the sun and be able to spread the rebuild costs out over a few months. Just saying...
     
  3. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is the only rod cap I pulled. Crankshaft end play is supposed to be .004"-.008". I didn't measure it, but I can move it back and forth .015-.020 I'll bet. This crank has been ground .010". The cylinder walls, what I can see of them, look great. Compression was ~135-140 across the board when I put this motor in. I know it had very few miles since it was rebuilt, I'm just not sure what happened with the crank/ bearings.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011
  4. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

  5. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    you going to plastigauge or not bother and just install crank kit ?
     
  6. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    There's no need to plastigauge the old stuff... But yes, I will plastigauge the new crank/ bearings.
     
  7. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    On the rear main seal...I had limited luck with the plastic seal last time. Should i use a rope this time?
     
  8. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    I've always had better luck with the rubber replacement seal.
     
  9. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    It's toast. Copper showing. No need to measure. What does the journal look like? Yes, I'd Plastigage the new crank - cheap insurance.

    I've removed rope seals but all I've installed is the rubber/neoprene seals. The rubber seal is supposed to be better - but maybe it's just easier to install in situ. I expect I'd use the rubber seal even if I had the crank out.
     
  10. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Crank and bearing kit ordered, as well as gaskets, seals, plastigage, etc., etc.
     
  11. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    I was just curious how far gone
    and out
     
  12. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    clutch kit, etc., etc. :rofl:
     
  13. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Waiting....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. jpflat2a

    jpflat2a what's that noise?

    well...you can always chase bolt threads and clean/blow them out
     
  15. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I will, after the pan is on. Or at least after I get a gasket so I can set it on there. I want to keep as much crap out of there as I can...
     
  16. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Any possibility you have an oil delivery problem to the crank? Not that familiar with the 225, but it might be worthwhile to run all the oil galleries with a bore brush. The FSM will have an oil delivery diagram that will indicate what to look at and what could go wrong.
     
  17. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    I really don't think so. I have looked at the diagram.
    This motor is extremely clean inside, and/ but seemed to be plenty of oil in every gallery when I took it apart. It was running fine; just a bit of rod rattle at higher RPM. Honestly, if I had a mechanical fan, I wouldn't have heard it over the fan noise, yet.
     
  18. blevisay

    blevisay Oh Noooooooooooooooo! Staff Member

    suck it up and fix it right...:)
     
  19. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Um, I am...
     
  20. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Too late Billy, I already said that:)
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