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11" backing plate question

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Vanguard, Dec 10, 2009.

  1. Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

  2. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

  3. jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    I like the hill holding power of the stock ebrake setup! It keeps all four wheels from turning versus just the rear two of the modern type ebrake. Of course thats if it properly maintained and adjusted.:hurrican:
     
  4. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member


    dont see where it would make a difference, if you are in 4wd
     
  5. jeeper50

    jeeper50 jeeps 'till I die

    Guess you haven't been on a steep enough hill with a stalled Fhead and a manual trans yet. It'll happen one day.R)
     
  6. Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    $320-$350 an axle is pretty steep I think. I found my front backing plates on eBay for about $75, the rest of the parts are available very reasonably from your local FLAPS.

    My purpose in posting this thread was to see if my front backing plates that I used on the rear could be modified to accept the parking brake cables. From Howard's post, it looks like it might be possible so I'll have to give it some more though.
     
  7. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.


    Howard,
    Any way you could post up pics? I'd love to see what you did.
     
  8. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member


    now you have lost me:? E brake on the transfer = 1 drum style brake on the rear drive shaft, so it locks the drive shaft down, the only way the front wheels will hold is if everything is locked in 4wd.

    E brakes @ the rear wheels = 2 drumstyle brakes neither wheel can spin, so if you are in 4wd arent you doing the same thing only with twice as much brake, you have still locked the driveshaft down, just from a different point:rofl:
     
  9. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    I'm afraid not, this was a non-jeep related "need-to-get-it-done" project & from working on Tonk I knew if I stopped to take pics I'd never get it finished :rofl:.

    Basically I drilled a hole in the backing plate in what looked to be the right spot, oval-ed it out a bit (don't ask me how but you can probably guess) and welded up a "quick'n'dirty" entrance adapter to bring the cable in at the right angle & give the cable fingers something to snap into. It wasn't pretty but it worked very well. With a little planing & taking your time to do a good job I'm sure you can do something that will come out perfectly both from an operating & an "aesthetics" (sp?- my spell checker is insisting on the "a") viewpoint.

    H.
     
  10. Vanguard

    Vanguard Take Off! Staff Member

    :twisted:

    Do you recall what you used for an entrance adapter?
     
  11. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    It was 1"x 1/8" strapping bent into a wedge shape with pieces welded on the sides to weatherproof it a bit. The short side of the wedge was angled for the cable entrance & an appropriately sized hole drilled to accept the cable. I did make sure the hole in the backing plate was big enough I could stick a screwdriver through into the wedge space to pop the cable end fingers out if the cables ever need to be changed. If anyone wants more details I'll try to do up a drawing but there's really not more to it than that...

    H.
     
  12. endl

    endl Member

    Did you ever get a chance to get a picture of this?

    Also when using the 11" front plates I notice not all the holes line up with my Dana 44 flanged. Do most people just use the four and redrill the other two to match up with the axle carrier?
     
  13. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    When using a front backing plate on a flanged rear you will need to re-drill the upper two holes and increase the diameter of the center hole to allow the axle bearing and outer seal to pass through the backing plate. Careful work with a die grinder will do it if you are careful....
    Howard's post mentioned he never took pics so none are available. Nickmil
     
  14. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Yep. (I wish someone would have told The Jeep Guy this) :rofl:
     
  15. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    glad it was brought up, i dunknow if i am going this route or not, just measured mine today and they are 10". dont know if it would even be worth while as it is only a 1" increase mehh
     
  16. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Well, 10's are definitely better than 9"'ers but parts can be harder to find for the 10's. Personally I'd hold out for some 11" backing plates and then go from there....
     
  17. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    what %'s would you say is the differance between 9's,10's and 11's just currious. i am very anxious to get my disc swap done, heck may not even be a issue after that;)
     
  18. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Well, if you're planning on discs I'd expend my resources and time on that and forget the 10's or 11's. But I'm biased. I run discs on everything I own so, take that for what it's worth...R)
     
  19. kaiser_willys

    kaiser_willys Well-Known Member

    :rofl: well i does have a thread that does just that;) so i will take it as a nonissue with disc. i dunnow brakes and steering to me are the first most imporntant thing, then worry about how well it will go, power etc:beer:
     
  20. endl

    endl Member

    Ok thanks Nick. I did not really pay attention to the center hole as I was just holding it up against the backing plate looking at the mounting holes. My plan was to do the disk swap on the front and put these 11" finned drums on the rear.

    Thanks for your input.