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Clunk in rear end cj5 dana 44

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by alexa, Jul 19, 2009.

  1. alexa

    alexa New Member

    When I first go into gear or from forward to reverse, the rear end has a large clunk noise. What is likely to be the problem and how long can I run with it this way? It has plenty fluid and it is in the rear end, not the universal joint. I want to drive it about 3 thousand miles before I try to fix it if I can.
     
  2. 66cj5

    66cj5 Jeep with no name

    sounds like you have a powr-lok or a lot of slop in the diff to me.

    what's the oil look like?
     
  3. mt_jeep

    mt_jeep New Member

    Check the pinon nut. It might be loose, mine was.
     
  4. neptco19

    neptco19 That guy....

    +1, just crawl under it and grab the pinion and see if you can move it. If the nut is tight then its your pinion bearings..
     
  5. alexa

    alexa New Member

    The pinion nut is tight, how long are the pinion bearings likely to hold? The oil looks new and clean, I changed it about 2000 miles ago.
     
  6. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Maybe someone who knows more about building differentials will correct me...

    Is this axle noisy? Usually they will be really noisy for a long time before they break entirely. Due to extra runout, the pinion seal will also start to leak if the outer pinion bearing is failing.

    The outer pinion bearing usually fails first because it is the first to suffer from low oil.

    Are you sure this noise is coming from a lot of backlash? A clunk can also come from badly worn transfer case output shaft splines.

    First thing I'd do is remove the rear driveshaft and drive around using the front wheels, making sure the noise comes from the rear axle, rear driveshaft or rear output.
     
  7. birddog56

    birddog56 Member

    I agree with Tim. I can't think of anything in a diff that would cause a clunk, and then run smooth. If it had wear in a shaft, bearings, too much lash, not enough lash , or a busted tooth, etc. Anything like that would cause running noise. Noises can be funny, and transmit from somewhere else.
     
  8. Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    What about springs and shackles? Worn out shackle bushings, or something broken? Any way you can get it up on a lift somewhere and do some poking, yanking and wiggling?
     
  9. tcfeet

    tcfeet Member

    Checked your u-joints??
     
  10. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    If there is excessive backlash in the differential you will have a "clunk" every time you start out, or when you go from reverse gear to forward gear. You can check this by putting the trans in neutral and rocking the driveshaft back and forth. YOu'll know excessive travel when you see it. ;) If the pinion nut is tight as mentioned above, you could have worn spider/side gears.

    When I took my rear diff apart to install the Lock-rite in it it had a LOT of slop in it. Since the Lock-rite replaces the pinion and side gears, it was nice a tight when I was finished. I would think you would get similar results replacing the worn gears with new ones as well.
     
  11. alexa

    alexa New Member

    In neutral when I move the driveshaft by hand, I get the clunk and it is from inside the differential. When I move the jeep back and forth by hand with it in any gear, I see the whole rear end cam a little on the springs, and the noise comes out of the differential. The jeep has new springs, shocks, shackles etc....
    How hard is a differential to rebuild? The rear end seems to do fine except for the clunk which happens when I shift from reverse to forward, or forward to reverse and sometimes when I let the clutch out after coasting. I want to drive up in the mountains of colorado and do not want to find myself stuck up there with a locked rear end. I guess I can get out with front wheel drive as long as nothing locks up.
     
  12. Mr. Gangrene Jeans

    Mr. Gangrene Jeans I See Voices&Hear Visions

    Howdy, years ago I had a Barracuda that clunked like you describe. Turned out the spider gear shaft had worn a slot in the carrier. The ring gear kept the shaft captured and once you were in gear and going, it did not make any untoward noises. Fixed it for the short term by moving it all the way to one end of the slot and arc welding lug nuts in the oval holes that remained. I did not weld up the spiders or over heat the carrier and it functioned as a normal differential for some time afterwards. I would pull the cover and check. Stinky, messy job that is best done at home. Did you say what gear ratio, spline count and if Limited Slip is it a Power-loc or a Trac-loc?
     
  13. alexa

    alexa New Member

    This is a dana44 with the 5.38 gear ratio and tapered axles. It has new wheel bearings and seals. I guess I am going to have to go inside and see what is going on. Are parts hard to come by?
     
  14. Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    I had the same problem. I was all worried about swapping rear ends. It ended up being the ujoint. And I had checked it previously and ruled it out. I was amazed. Maybe put the t case in neutral and try it again?
     
  15. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Parts are easy to find for these - you really need to pop the diff cover off and take a look at what is going on. Spider and Axle gears are not tough to redo.
     
  16. lynn

    lynn Time machine / Early CJ5 HR Rep Staff Member

    Some lunchbox lockers will cause this symptom, and it's completely normal for that application. Probably not the case here.