Frustrating Brakes!

IF the pedal is spongey, you have AIR in the line. get brake bleeding kit (the one with the lttle jar and vacuum pump). I use DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid as it doesn't attract water or remove paint.

 

Remember you have only done the fronts, after you do the backs you should notice a difference in pedal pressure. Remember start from the farthest point being the passenger side rear then go to the next farthest point being the drivers side rear then back to the passenger side front and then to the drivers side front. I also put in some speed bleeders and it has made a world of difference, you can bleed them by yourself and I have pedal pressure like never before.

 

Just finished my front and back this past weekend...I hope you have a hub puller for the rear!! I have the 10 inch brakes like I assume you do! I was surprised that I can't get mine to lock up like before, but after getting into mine, I realized that I had my rear ones not working at all! Now that they are all working well, it does seem to take longer to stop but it is not unreasonable. I encourage you to flush the system after completing the rear brake build up and then make sure to bleed properly. I used speed bleeders which I love but remember you drain your master cylinder pretty quick with these! Mainly, I would say, make your final assessment after completing the rear. Keep asking questions if you need help! Don't quit!

 

Thanks guys.. I am going to finish the rears, get some speed bleeders and see how it goes. I really hope my rear drums come off without a puller... My fronts came off with a little beating but from what I read the rear drums are the most difficult..

 

R) I had the same dream R)

 

wreckless123: you already seem discouraged with the brake work so far, so I hate to discourage you about the hub puller, but I would be very surprised if you can get them off with a little beating. There was a post on here not too long ago about someone who cracked the edge of thier drums by prying so I just want to warn you from messing them up. Search on this site "hub puller" and get a good picture of what you need. I drove all around my county for a week trying to find one to rent from an auto parts store. No luck at finding one that would work. I finally found one on ebay that was $55 and another Jeep Head bought it and I was the first to use it. Just trying to warn you so you can be thinking about it as you get into the rear. Also, make sure you have a 3/4" head for the 1 1/17" socket that will remove the axle nut. This takes a pretty large socket that I had to borrow as well. I didn't replace my rubber lines but maybe I should have. Keep us up!!

 

HAHAHA!! That was me with the cracked front drum.. I already planned on replacing the rear drums so if I destroy them I guess I will have to cough up the cash.. So the nut needs to come off? Thanks..

 

Good luck....removing my rear brakes/hubs was a humbling experience. One side was a piece of cake, the other side resulted in a broken heavy duty hub puller, a broken large 3-jawed puller, a broken vice, a damaged hi-lift jack, multiple bruises, 5 ruined wheel studs, a ruined drum, and ~8 hours of frustration. Only to end with paying a machine shop to do what I couldn't.

 

God I'm glad I have flanged axles. Rear drums come off with about 2 taps from a dead blow.

 

If you change lines,hoses,wheel cylinders, etc spend the extra dollars and use DOT-5 silicone fluid you won't regret it. But that's another story. I use it in all of my restorations!!!!!!!!!

 

This trick I learned from the CJ3B page to remove the rear drums has worked for me every time I have had to remove them.

"Loosen the axle hub retaining nuts about half to three-quarters of a turn from finger-tight and replace their cotter keys. Now drive the car a mile or two on a bumpy road. Usually the hubs will come off in your hands when the nuts are backed off the rest of the way."

This is from the tech tips part of the 3B page.

 

I used to do the same thing on my MGB that had wire wheels to loosen up the wheels that froze to the spindle.

 

I drove mine 2 days, intentionally running over curbs, peeling out, locking up on the brakes, hard turns, and still broke all the tools described above. It had soaked in PB blaster the whole time as well. It took a 40 ton press at the machine shop.



edit: The 2 days of driving was with the axle nut loose more than a turn