Initial Inspection brings up some questions

The temp sender should be on the front of the intake. Not sure if your engine is the same as mine (I have a 231 so similar) but my oil sender is on the front passenger side of the block near the oil filter. And yes you can put a breather cap on the valve cover, that hose is for emissions purposes.

 

The temp sender can be put in both places but it is factory right where its at in position #2, the #4 position if you remove that hose there should be a threaded hole to put a pipe plug in. The hose stuck below the PCV valve can be removed and the proper grommet put back there and the PCV reinstalled in the valve cover like its suppose to be.

 

I am not saying mine is factory or "correct" but here is mine. Please ignore the mess of wires and extra coolant hoses (due to my inline coolant heater).

 

thanks guys....time to go shopping!!!

 

ok so let me just get this straight....number 4 is gonna be replaced with the proper elbow, gonna get a new pcv valve and grommet, gonna get a threaded insert for 1 and 3 so i can plug those up. also new plugs and hoses, and fuel lines and inline filter while im at it. then we will see where we stand...can you guys think of anything else that would be a cheap replacement while im at it to solve this "stumbling" issue? off to the flaps!!!

 

Hows the ignition system, HEI, Delco? New points, rotor, coil, etc.?

 

its not hei, but will be as soon as i can find one......i had a cape conversions or dui (i cant remember) on the 70 and loved it...will prob go with one of those two again.

i have never seen a points type before, my 70 had a regular ac delco dist and cap before i swapped in the hei....how do i tell......i do know that it looks like a typical dist, and under the cap it looked pretty god.

 

well i just got back from the local joint...i now have new plugs, fittings, fuel filter, and pcv...no new lines they didnt have the sizes i needed...i have no leaks right now, but i figured i would swap them out while i had it all apart. i will find some new ones in the next couple of days....time to go play

 

I now have new plugs, new pcv, capped all the vacuum fittings, new fuel filter(old one had sludge in it btw), and new breather cap.....i also sprayed the living **** out of the carb with carb cleaner while it was running. the stumbling issue on acceleration seems to have gotten better, but not all the way gone....also the old plugs were black and wet, and when i do get on the acclerator a little bit of white smoke comes out both exhausts....whats next....carb rebuild...its got the rochester 2Jet(is this the 2G?) ihave no experiance with this setup...my 70 had a holly 390 4barrell. idears???

 

the jeep is idling very nice though i might had...and after the stumbling issue it runs real smooth. I need to get a tach for it so i can see where its ideling at it seems a bit high, but i cant seem to get it to idle any lower.....fuel/air mixture??? im just trhowing stuff out there

 

Have you turned the distributor any?

 

If it's been sitting awhile take the carb apart and rebuild it. Gas is so crappy nowadays it seems like it varnishes up in a couple weeks. This carb is easy to rebuild.

 

will the local flaps have a rebuild kit for these???

 

not yet...i have my timing light now, so i guess i should go check that too.... plus i think my bettery just crapped out i have to jump it everytime i start it now..even if the jeep as only been shut off for a few seconds.

 

most likely. adam gets his rebuilt kits from autozone i'm pretty sure either there or napa

 

If the distributor has gotten moved it might also be hard to start. I doubt that that is your problem, but before you spring for a new battery check and make sure the distributor isn't loose. You have probably got carb issues, but before you have to buy anything it is worth checking to make sure the dist. is right first.

 

rebuild kit from napa is about $14. they had it in stock. 7% discount if you're an AAA member.

i had same stumbling problem with mine. stripped the carb down cleaned it all in carb cleaner. rinsed it. rinse water out with alcohol and air blew it dry. pay particular attention to replacing the accel pump leather and reset the specs for the plunger linkage.

works like a charm now. still coughs when i lean out the choke too soon while it's warming up and then accelerate but that stops in about 3 mins of driving. no flat spots.

btw, never put your hand (or anyone else's) over the carb intake while the engine's running. use the choke. esp if you are having backfiring of accel probs. i like my hamburger rare but not when it happens to be my hand.

 

ok dist was a pain in the a$$ to move, but i have the timing set at 5 btc...i think...there is a tick mark right below the 0 and then above the 0 there is the numbers 4,8,12, and + are those numbers marking before or after tdc.

the battery wont stay charged...it looks like a have a points and condensor type dist and everything looks almost new...i dont have my fluke here so i cant check the alt, i am either not getting a charge or the battery is toast...once its running it stays running fine, so i think its battery.

 

i have no vacuum leaks that i can find at all, so i am pretty sure carb rebuild time is near

 

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33319&highlight=napa+rebuild+part+number