Another Shift Lever Pivot Pin Question

I've read through several threads here about the shift lever pivot pin. I'm disassembling a case I bought a week or so ago but I can't get the shift lever pivot pin out.

I've hit it so hard I was worried I'd break the case (both directions)
It didn't have a zerk so I tapped it at 1/4-20 with a socket to pull it out but I broke the 1/4-20 screw
I stepped up the hole size and tapped it to 3/8-16 and even with a breaker bar it won't budge. The socket left an indentation on the outside of the case.

The transmission side of the pin is a bit mushroomed so I might try and grind it down a bit then use the 3/8 again.

Other than that, I'm pretty much ready to try and drill this thing all the way out and then ream it afterwards. Anyone know what that hole size should be. I can't get a good dimension with calipers but it looks like it's slightly under 1/2".

Anyone have any other thoughts?

 

Grind the Transmission side flush then drill out as much as you can on the transmission side. Use a drift and one pound hammer from the transmission side pushing out the grease zert side or up the drill until it spins out or you can take a jig saw blade in for a internal relief cut.

 

There likely is a lock screw in one of those case ears. clean off all the hardened grease and look for it. It usually has a square head for a small wrench about 1/4 or 5/16 but I do not see it so it may be broken off flush and grease covered.
ON EDIT: I now see the lock screw has been removed. look down in there to make sure it did not break off in there leaving part of it. there is a machined grove in the pivot pin for the lock screw to fit into.

 

Can you get the rattle clips out? Either way, I'd soak that in PB Blaster or 50/50 of ATF and acetone for a few days. Get in everywhere you can. Then put some heat to the casting and try again to drive it out probably from the end opposite of where you drilled and tapped.

 

Thanks for the additional info.

It does not appear that the lock screw is in there. It was not installed when I received the case so it is possible there’s a chunk still in there. I ran a smaller drill bit in there to try and make sure there wasn’t something broken off still down in the hole. I forgot to mention that. I’ll investigate that a bit more to make sure.

Heat does sound like a good next step before drilling the whole thing out.

 

If needed I have some old transfer cases and could pull the front housing off of one.

 

Heat the ears with a torch outside, shoot some penetrating oil on it, get a big punch and a 4# sledge and drive it out. Don't play with it, its a pin. If you break the ears, it wont matter anyway if you need to take it apart for it to work. Also pretty much any one of us has an extra shifter mount we will give you.

Sometimes brute force and ignorance works, this is the correct application for that

 

Ignorance tends to have such a negative connotation. I prefer directed naivety. If it wasn’t for that I’d probably never start these projects.

 

No. Ignorance is the correct term to be used with freeing rusted stuck stuff. Directed naivety is why that pin is still stuck in there.. be up front and honest with the frozen part.. Don't reason with it or beat around the bush. Smack it right in its face like you mean it. Another thing, if you can figure out a way to support the botton ear when beating that pin out, feel free to use and 8# sledge and really unleash the ignorance on that thing.

Also, cuss at it. Cuss at that thing like your words will melt it right TF out of there. If you need some new cuss words, I have lots extra..

 

Make sure you use protection and plenty of oil. You don't want to pinch your finger but some proper lube goes a long way. I'ld recommend a fire and ice treatment.

 

Many years back, I had one with the pin absolutely stuck. I ended up drilling it out with progressively larger bits. The side with the zerk fitting was easier with a start of a pilot hole. The other side needed a center punch mark to start drilling. You only have to drill about an inch deep on each side. Then pull the two levers out with the center section of pin.
I was afraid of breaking the ears off by beating the pin out. The pin is easily replaced.
-Donny

 

Are we still talking about a transfer case??? (Doesn't anyone moderate these posts?)

 

Yes transfercase a tranny would be entirely different between the shift rails.

 

Not sure where this thread is headed but the pivot pin is out.

 

Good Job! Hooraw!

 

Wow, So the pin looks like it got worn away enough for the shift levers to create a step and stop the pin from moving.

Another way to get that apart would be to use a sawzall or hack saw to cut between the levers and remove them, then tap out the pin from either side. That probably would have worked a lot better than all the brute force and ignorance..

My lever holes were egged out, but not so much the pin. I bored the levers and pressed in Oilite bushings to take up the slack and made my own pin to replace the wore out one. It seems to work ok. Lot of work for not a lot of gain.. Whatever.

Great job not breaking something!

 

I actually think that it looks like there's a step there because I had drilled through the center of the pin but it still wouldn't move so I hammered the %&$# out of the shifter arms from the side to try and shear the pin. That broke it loose and once I put the drill bit back down the center it spun and came out..

 

Not exactly how I described it, but it worked! Good job.
As 47V6 mentioned, you can drill out oversize, and press bushings in to bring the bores back to original size for an original pin.
-Donny