If It Ain't One Thing, It's Another.

somehow I can relate to that statement

 

I probably should have said a payment would be easier. Like you, I have no desire to be enslaved. Debt free for 15 years. House and everything. A treat I did for
myself after I got divorced. The money and decisions were mine now. Go figure.

 

You’ve gotten lots of good advice…as usual. Just wanted to add that these things are old and often modified by previous owners. It can tricky be to sort things out. So of course get the shop manuals, but if you’re not sure, posting pictures of stuff is a good way to get things identified. How many times have we seen an ad that says “Dana 44’s front and rear”?… only to look at a front Dana 27 or a Dana 30.

 

https://www.thejeepsterman.com/products/95-service-manual-jeep-universal-series/

Not necessarily. My JK has had WAY more problems than any of my old Jeeps (probably an order of magnitude more than the sum of all my old Jeeps over 50 something years) and unfortunately shows no sign of slacking off of that apparent ambition to be the absolute best it can be in that regard. Guess it is good to be good at something----Would I purchase another new Jeep product? Not a snowball's chance in hell.

 

Yeah nothing better than two $700 bills for just refrigerant in one year then a transmission rebuild with thirty miles left on the powertrain warranty

 

Yeah. I guess it is all relative to time, money, abilities, instant gratification, tools, space, etc. As an example of just $60.00 an hour and having all the mods and repairs
done on a Jeep. What would be the final cost analysis?

 

I have my own stock of refrigerant. R-12, R-22, R-410a and R-134a. Non of the new R-1234yf yet.

 

This was R1234yf.
I even flat towed the jeep to the ford dealership so I had something to drive home.

Back to the jeep here... pop the front axle cover off and show us the damage.

 

It seems that each time the patent runs out for Dupont, the existing refrigerant suddenly becomes bad for the environment.
I remember R-12 at $30 for 30lbs. Used it like an air tank. With each new refrigerant the price goes up. Mexico did not sign on
to the Montreal Protocol and still makes R-12.

 

x2

 

Update: Sure enough, hubs were locked in. I was in 4wd the whole time. (Also, the 4wd shifters in the floorboard weren't connected to anything!) Haven't had time to open the diff cover yet to see what is waiting for me. However, I started it up and tried to move it (now that the hubs are unlocked) and I seem to have, on top of all of this, lost everything but neutral on my transmission. Could this issue have caused a blown transmission as well?? Transmission in the ol girl has never been strong, dad had to rebuild it twice when he had it. (Chevy 350 is much too much power for a t90)
Also (I'm editing this comment) I want to thank you all for supporting the new guy. Never imagined the community would be so welcoming.

 

Is maybe it's just your transfer case shift is in neutral???

 

without a picture . I can only guess . but it does sound like transfer case is in neutral
from bottom of jeep . take a picture of shift rods

 

Oh boy its a can of worms! Sounds to me like the drive to the rear was broken so they had it in 4wd to drive it all this time. See if the rear driveshaft is spinning. I dont know if just the rear can not work in the transfer case. They are supposidly good for alot of power but still can go bad. Maybe i should stop commenting lol

 

Not really possible unless the rear output shaft is broken. I'm pretty sure it would be complaining very loudly at that point and the rear seal would be very unhappy. You could end up in a similar condition as with the front driveshaft only a piece of the rear output shaft would still be attached to the companion flange. Those, like pretty much everything else in the universe, can be broken but in my experience, that is a rare occurrence. The case usually cracks before you break the output shafts.

With the front driveshaft still "disconnected", I too would jack the rear end up and turn the rear driveshaft to see what is happening there. If that looks normal, the next step is to run the transfercase through all the positions. This is WAY easier with the shift levers installed but can be done with a large screwdriver or pry bar. The actual shift rail positions will be opposite of the sticker Twin posted.

The T90 gets a lot of bad press but it was actually way over-built for the original application behind the L head. Not as over-built as the D18 but still more than adequate. It can survive behind a 350 but you need to be nice to it and no big tires.

 

The plot thickens. Not sure what "lost everything but neutral" means. Does the shifter still operate in an "H" pattern? Shifters not connected to the transfer case could mean he was operating
in the front drive only when the driveshaft came loose. I am an optimist and believe all is not lost. Definitely requires further investigation. Somebody gonna have to get dirty.

 

Haha, yes, still feels like it's shifting, but won't move when in gear. I cant wait to tear into this baby when I get home from work!

 

Odds are that somehow, the transfercase is just in neutral. Try moving the low range shifter rail either direction.

 

Well, I opened up the cover tonight. I am trying to add the photos via my cellphone. Things aren't good. New front axle for sure.

 

I don't want to discuss what I'm spending to replace the front differential on my F150....

S happens.

Find you a narrow track Dana 30 with disc brakes from a late CJ.