Howdy Early CJ5 Folks!

Howdy Early CJ5 Forum!

May I have your 2 cents and ask a few questions? (I'll warn you, I'm a novice when it comes to old Jeeps and restoration!)

Always wanted an old Jeep to fix up and after a few years of finding the perfect candidate I finally found one. So here I am, hoping to pick your brains as I get this beast in running order.

1967 CJ5, F134 w/T90 and 18 xfer. 27s front w/ manual hubs and 44s rear. Motor starts right up and the tub and frame appears to be in pretty good shape although there is a little surface rust forming on the bottom of the frame.
Needs wiring harness finished and small stuff... Mirrors, lights, etc to get her on the road.
Took her on a spin around the block and no apparent issues.
Service manual from Kaiser Willys is in the mail before I tear anything apart or do anything but stare at her or sit in her dreaming of driving.
I'm not afraid of tearing stuff apart but not gonna lie - I know little about serious mechanics although I've swapped brakes and water pumps before... But nothing as serious as I'm thinking I'd like to do with this Jeep. BLUF is I'd like to make this a reliable and functioning driver (not necessarily daily driver) and not looking to make this 100% original down to the last nut and bolt. Functionality is key.

So, a few questions:
1. Am I crazy to want to tear this thing down to the frame, blast and rebuild everything like new so she'll last for the next 50 years? Or should I spend the couple hundred bucks, fix what's needed and put a couple hundred miles on her before turning her into a pile of parts? I'm leaning towards tear down.

2. Two days after starting her, backing up, and ensuring xfer case and xmission was operating and then parking, a fists-sized diameter puddle of light brown sticky oil appeared, apparently from the front (engine side) xfer case? It is running along the bottom and has collected on the ebrake drum. Any thoughts why this would all the sudden show up? I assume age and needs new seal somewhere?

3. I have the original oil bath air cleaner but it is cracked around the outlet to the carb. Someone also drilled a second, larger hole (1" dia) next to the outlet. Big deal? No big deal? Your thoughts? If I do paper filter what have you done with hose from oil dip stick tube?

4. I have the Solex carb... Does or does not have a choke? There's a lever that looks like a choke on the drivers side of it but position?

5. I have what appears to be the original rims, and I definitely want to do a front disc conversion. Am I going to have issues fitting those wheels back on? What have you done?

Thanks in advance for your answers/comments/sympathy! I'll be looking forward to hearing from you.

Mike

 

Welcome from Oklahoma!

1) if it was me I would drive it around enough on and off road to decide upgrades I would want during the rebuild.

2) Dana 18 transfer cases are famous for dripong a drop or two after a drive, but what you are describing sounds excessive. Probably worn out output shaft seals. Maybe the speedo cable connection is loose it can leak too.

3) got nothing for you I am a V6 guy.
4) nothing
5) disk brakes require aftermarket wheels.

 

Welcome from northern Minnesota--

5.) Brakes-- Check and see if you have a single or dual master cylinder. Likely single, and if you plan any serious brake considerations consider dual. I have the Wilwood Combination Remote Tandem Master Cylinder

 

In response to your first question, how much money do you have to lose ? I'm restoring my 67 back to factory specs because it was my fathers and I like the challenges of making it factory fresh. If your looking to just have some fun, fix her up and drive it. You can always do it at a later date.

 

run it if you tear it down its a long pricy project use it for a while and decide what needs work then. and holes in the air cleaner are bad.

 

Also I forgot to add this is a good book to show you what's involved ina rebuild.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/08376...oses+ludel&dpPl=1&dpID=51EK+UX5dzL&ref=plSrch

 

Thanks homersdog... I like the prices of that place over other stores I've priced parts at.

Can't tell what type of cylinder I have but for the price of that kit vs safety of a new master, I'll gladly spend the money for new.

After market wheels... I was afraid of that.

I'll check that book out, thanks.

 

Johns1967CJ5,

Ha, how much money do I have to lose? Guess what my buddy told me Jeep stands for after I told him what I got!
I'll be ok if I budget and spread this out over a couple years... Sooner if the engine doesn't need rebuild. Of course I'm sure I'm not accounting for tools and unforeseen "whoops" or "uh oh, that's not good."

I'd love to get her on the road now but I guess I'm sort of paranoid that if I don't tear her down right away and rebuild that:
1: I'll spend more time plugging holes in the damn then enjoying it.
2: The rust will take over - and this is my biggest concern.

Seems more votes for enjoy now rebuild later...

Appreciate the advice.

 

R&P 4 WD Parts Inc. has what they call a 1/4 ton disc brake kit that fits over some of the stock wheels. It's smaller than the usual 1/2 ton GM conversion stuff but works quite well. One of the members here used it and documented it in the builds section. http://rp4wd.com/?page_id=31

 

Ironically enough I did that. The brakes are from an s10. They work fantastic.

 

1. Driving it for awhile will help you bond with it. It is a fact of nature. It will also let you know what things need to be fixed.
2. What everybody else said. Probably seals.
3. I only ran one once and when I swapped engines it was no longer an issue, so no help here.
4. I ran a Solex on an L head way back when. From what I recall, they are sensitive to fuel pressure so you might need to run a pressure regulator. Also from what I recall, the choke is an internal function so there is no obvious closing of a butterfly valve like you would see on the stock carb. It actually ran really well on my Jeep.
5. If you want discs because you just want discs, then lots of people here will help you. If you want an early, relatively low powered Jeep that works hard to maintain freeway speeds to be able to stop in a hurry, you may find just switching to modern, properly working, self adjusting 11 inch brakes to be your answer (or maybe even 10's). I am still running them on my flatty and she will stop fast enough to scare you. If you keep the stock master cylinder and location, you should consider tapping the cap for the MC and mounting a remote reservoir on the firewall. I have seen early, flathead powered Jeeps with four wheel discs. What comes to my mind was a line from an old friend, "Its like putting airbrakes on a turtle".

Good luck and have fun.

 

I would opt for fixing the D18 seals/yokes and put some miles on it. Depending on your use, you may decide the F134 isn't quite up to your needs and better to know that before ripping it all apart. That and I've seen way too many piles of Jeep parts that never get reassembled.

And welcome aboard!

 

I agree with John on this one....drive it a bit and decide on a course of action.

 

Thanks for the input guys.

Interesting point on not needing disc brakes... For what ever reason I just assumed drums bad, discs good. I ultimately chose a Jeep with the F134 after reading about it's relative simplicity and reliability - fully understanding I'll never take it on the highway and I'm fine with that. Around town and some light trail riding... Maybe I'll keep the drums and rebuild. I can't find a part number on my rims but white on inside, black outside, 15" dia, 5 lug. Looks like the rims on every stock/original Jeep picture I see online. The entire drum casing takes up darn near the entire inside of the rim and is finned... Does that mean I have 11" drums already?

Glenn - Thanks for Solex info. Makes sense now. Vehicle starts in mild weather no problems and lever was forward.

That service manual can't get here fast enough.

Thanks duffer... Transfer case seals and yokes will get looked at.

I need to get some pictures on here in a few days. Any trouble areas I could photograph for input from you guys or anything y'all would like to see in particular?

Thanks again.

 

Welcome from Ga. Drive it for a while. I am with duffer.

 

Welcome from Michigan, I suggest that you fix what needs fixing and drive it to see if you are going to like driving an Antique. Jeeps are like a Tractor that has plates on it, fun at low speed. Then you can really get into it if that is what you want to do. Jeeps are the most simple vehicles to restore, every thing is basic and available. The people here are the most dedicated people to the hobby of Jeeps I have ever come across, everyone is ready to help. Good luck.

 

I'm in agreement with everyone else, drive it for awhile until you figure out what you really like and dislike. Many guys start tearing down their jeeps before enjoying them, and the excitement wanes after project creep sets in. Some projects (such as my own) drift into years with no end in sight. Well, actually I know how to get what I actually want in a Jeep (buy an intermediate), but I'm going to be adding all of the upgrades that have been done by the factory over the years to my '57.

In regards to the f-head, its a bulletproof motor and mine started for 20 years of ownership without a single mishap, even after sitting for months. Its only flaw is that it is dreadfully underpowered for modern traffic. If you have access to back roads you'll be happy; unfortunately all of the access roads from my home are 60+ mph and the motor wouldn't cut it.

These Jeeps are as simple as they get. If you can change brakes or a water pump, you SHOULD be able to figure out any problem that you might have with your new Jeep. You've come to the right place if you have questions!

 

Hello from Tn ! all of the above