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Ross box lower tube and plug

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by WorkInProgress, Sep 19, 2015.

  1. my 59 cj5 is currently apart for a paint job and I decided to go ahead and rebuild the steering box while the fenders are off. my question is the spare ross box I am rebuilding to install in my cj5 has the lower metal tube and plug missing from the bottom of the box. the one that the horn wire passes through. it looks like the box still installed in the jeep has one but how do I remove it safely without destroying it? how is it held in? is it glued in? snap ring? what? and if it is common for it to fall out driving down the road, is there a suggested or IMPROVED way to install it so it keeps the fluid in and doesn't leak or fall out?

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    the whole jeep is already painted completely but it is too dark to take pics, and apparently I missed a couple small areas due to poor lighting mostly next to switches and brackets. so I will be touching up or something probably tomorrow, but I am not sure how to touch it up without getting dry spray onto the next panels but I don't think taping off the other panels is wise since I just painted today a couple hours ago
     
  2. homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

  3. Johns1967CJ5

    Johns1967CJ5 Sponsor

    I restored mine with it in but I believe its pressed in
     
  4. My lower tube is broke off the bottom plug how can I reattach it for the horn wire?
     
  5. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Brazing?
     
  6. Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    Post pictures?
     
  7. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    If it was mine, I would probably drill or grind out the broken off flare from the plug. Then expand the end of the tube into the plug with a new flare, and braze it.

    Solder would be a second choice, if done well on clean metal.
     
  8. That sounds like a great idea PeteL. Maybe I will try and fix this one as a spare. But for now I found a brand new one and ordered it. Will probably arrive friday. I was afraid I wouldn't braze it right since I have never brazed anything and would have to re fix it shortly down the road so I just bought new part.

    I am however confused what brand this new part is. I would guess it's not omix - ada or crown or I am sure every supplier would sell it. Since I only found it at willysjeepparts.com in Arizona and maybe at surplusjeep.com but I don't really like ordering from surplusjeep since I have purchased several items and don't like their random price hikes and you don't know how much for shipping until they charge you $15 to ship a very small size, 3 dollar part
     
  9. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Cool.

    Given the unknown provenance and quality, I think I'd leak test it before installation, with some kerosene or such. (Then braze it anyway!:twisted: )
     
  10. Yep I have a radiator test kit that I should be able to use to pressure test the box before install pretty easy but how many psi would be suggested to test. Like 3 or 5 psi?
     
  11. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    No idea. I would just see if a light oil seeps through overnight.
     
  12. Any idea what light oil I should test with? I only have gear oils and 10w -30
     
  13. PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I don't think there is any rule, it's only a suggestion off the top of my head, after my experiences fixing radiators and gas tanks. I'd try anything that would seep through a tight crack... kerosene, gasoline, soapy water...

    Your air-pressure test would be good with soap solution on the exterior.
     
  14. army grunt

    army grunt Member

    I used "JB" weld. It works good in places you don't want to warp..
     
  15. Well I just received the new bottom ross box plug with the tube attached and I am leaning towards it being made by or for willysjeepparts.com because the bottom plug part is stamped DORMAN 550-017 which corresponds to a basic concaved plug. so it must be a house made part. quality looks fine but I'm not sure about one thing the tube doesn't seem to be straight up when standing, it seems it was welded on with the tube leaning which might be how it is supposed to be I don't know
     
  16. With new parts in hand I went out to install everything into the box and I have a big problem I would think.

    The new sector shaft bushings can be installed into the box by hand. no tools or anything. and then when I insert the NOS? sector shaft into the NOS? bushings, the shaft is tight and just pushes the bushings further into their bore and then the bushing turns in the housing but doesn't turn on the sector.

    the bushings and sector shaft came together in the same box and were sold to me off ebay claiming NOS parts. they arrived in a red Crown box. the box was labeled made in usa but it didn't specifically say that the parts were usa made. (but I wouldn't think they would use a us made box with foreign parts but idk)

    I tried the NOS? bushings in both my ross boxes and they installed by hand into both of them so either both my ross box bores are enlarged. or more likely the bushings are too small outside diameter.
     
  17. Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    I've been through pretty much the same scenario you described. There are like 3 different size boxes. I would measure the sector shaft diameter and call somebody like Walck's for the right parts.